Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

recently took my car to the tracks and noticed some issues which were not there when it was tuned about a year ago (not putting the blame on anyone here)

at idle, when you tap the throttle, it feels like the revs drop momentarily. Even when you rev the car in neutral, it feels like there is hesitation below the revs pick up. any idea what this is?

also at wide open throttle (WOT) the top of 3 gear is splattering. is this lack of spark? i have a big fuel system in the car and on the dyno it was fine, but im sure real life situations are different to dyno.

and last thing is at wakefield, as i come in fast to a corner and brake (turn 2, fish hook and last corner) the car doesn't rev or do anything! it drops to neautral for about 2-4seconds then picks back up again. I've tried to rev match and downshift but nothing worked! Car drives on the street fine but this is concerning me.

Is it a Tune? Spark? Fuel?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/443762-gtr-issue/
Share on other sites

Sounds like fuel surge on corners , but u have bit fuel system , changed filter in last year? I'd be checking fuel pressure and also all fuel related electrical connections , sputtering up top happened to me recently and was a boost leak I didn't know about , if all if above ok I'd look at earthing coils directly before looking at tune,but you could contact your tuner usually they are more than happy to hp if they are any good lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/443762-gtr-issue/#findComment-7297521
Share on other sites

Simplest thing to start with for the 3rd gear splatter is to pull the plugs and take a look. Change them anyway if they're old. Don't run a wider gap.

Also, tunes don't last forever because all the components that produce power wear/get dirty etc and don't behave exactly like they did when the tune was done.

Agree that fuel surge is the last issue. As soon as that happens head off the track and back to Goulburn to fill up again, or take spare fuel and save the trip. You'll find it starts at about the same fuel tank level each time.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/443762-gtr-issue/#findComment-7297613
Share on other sites

i'm gonna make some guesses here.... you need to do this

i did this on my wifes GTR that had a missfire when up it in third. the second part might be that your tuner may not have done your accelerator correction, or it could be your TPS. make sure your tps is reading the correct voltage at idle i think its 0.45v-0.55v at throttle closed position, the voltage should increase to somewhere between 3-5v at WOT. you don't need to do this with the car going but just the ignition turned on.

whats your ECU ? can you datalog?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/443762-gtr-issue/#findComment-7297706
Share on other sites

shall be cleaning the fuel filters out this coming week. plugs checked out ok and did a quick compression test as well and engine seems good. strange why it would be spluttering down the straight if it was surging as that is what i would expect from cornering

fuel system consists of a Weldon 2015A fuel pump, Earls billet fuel filters, -8 lines to the surge tank, -8 hose all the way up to the engine then splitting up to 2x -6 at the fuel rail

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/443762-gtr-issue/#findComment-7298613
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...