Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 77
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

I don't at 14psi don't get me wrong if just wanted to know what other supporting mods I need and this was the tune that came with the car I sold it to a fella who put a bigger front mount on tuned it to this and 6 months later I have brought it back

You need more supporting psi's in the manifold. :P

You can make 300 on your current turbo, your current engine. not sure what your injectors are i think you mentioned 550cc. that might be enough

wind 20psi through the stock motor on that turbo. t66 is massive by today's standard BTW.

I reckon you'll get 300 pretty easy. above 20psi and you want to do some headwork I believe but maybe you can squeeze a bit more boost on the factory valvesprings seeing as the turbo is so big.

You can make 300 on your current turbo, your current engine. not sure what your injectors are i think you mentioned 550cc. that might be enough

wind 20psi through the stock motor on that turbo. t66 is massive by today's standard BTW.

I reckon you'll get 300 pretty easy. above 20psi and you want to do some headwork I believe but maybe you can squeeze a bit more boost on the factory valvesprings seeing as the turbo is so big.

Yeah well it's on a stock exhaust manifold they just pumped the t66 on there and hoped for the best haha but when it comes on boost it comes on hard!

Okay son of rajab son of rajab this is a roller coaster.

Keep your R33 head and slap it on an RB30 bottom end.

Keep your turbo.

Buy X-Spurt 1000cc injectors.

Sell your Power FC and buy a Link/Haltech.

Keep standard intake manifold.

Keep the hot side (turbo side) all the same.

Get it tuned by a REPUTABLE tuner. Run it at 20psi and enjoy obscene amounts of power, who cares what it makes, 300kw is just a number. I guarantee you will be happy with whatever it makes.

This is the best/cheapest/easiest/least f**king about way to do what you want.

while i agree with everything here he can still use the powerfc.

out of those 2. bang for buck GT3076. but look up hypergearturbos.com and they have dyno sheets on RB25's for most of their turbos. for 300kw on P98 internally gated on the factory manifold you could probably do that with the SS2. You can do it with an R34 highflow I think too which is guaranteed direct bolt on + stock looking

TD06

GTX3071

There are plenty of others, but your choices will change my recommendations. External gate and e85 would be the most important upgrades I could suggest you do at the moment.

Do you have access to an e85 pump? Where are you located? Are the police happy to ream you after popping your bonnet? Do you have yearly RWC inspections? etc, etc.

TD06

GTX3071

There are plenty of others, but your choices will change my recommendations. External gate and e85 would be the most important upgrades I could suggest you do at the moment.

Do you have access to an e85 pump? Where are you located? Are the police happy to ream you after popping your bonnet? Do you have yearly RWC inspections? etc, etc.

No e85 on pump no sadly the best we get on pump is 98 and no yearly Rwc and cops are easy going I drove this around on my p's for nearly a year and my rb20 s13 as well not even pulled over

out of those 2. bang for buck GT3076. but look up hypergearturbos.com and they have dyno sheets on RB25's for most of their turbos. for 300kw on P98 internally gated on the factory manifold you could probably do that with the SS2. You can do it with an R34 highflow I think too which is guaranteed direct bolt on + stock looking

I'll jump on and have a look now

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That was the first session so not a lot to take from the day. It was low 20s ambient and the coolant had got to 110 (and obviously had some pressure!) so that still needs to be addressed. I haven't downloaded the data yet but will. I had refilled the auto trans with Redline DT6 because it claimed the best viscosity I could find at 100o. It wasn't really long enough to get a good feel for that; while the trans got to 100o in the session it still wasn't shifting crisply as I hoped. I think I'll try a few more sessions before judging. No steering motor overheat but I'd hope not in only 1 session! But finally the suspension; it was night and day over the standard stuff and the car was a couple of seconds quicker on the same crappy tyres, which is a huge difference. I'll stick with that and get some sway bars and a mechanical diff sorted too and see how that all goes together
    • I guess it’s partially a compromise of how my car is used, wanting to be able to switch from drift to grip with track side on-car adjustment. Also partially with the way the knuckles are set there is more static camber but less dynamic camber gain. 
    • OK, so update from the track day on Friday It was a classic "an unfortunate series of events'. There were a few cars around and when i checked my mirror coming out of the fish hook I notice some smoke from the rear of mine. Looked again and it was getting much worse, I figured I'd blown a turbo or something to got off it and pulled off the racing line. However.... since it is a left hairpin into a right kink, I was on the inside of the next corner. There was a car passing me on the left and a big drop off over the ripple strip on the right......and someone had knocked the witch's hat that was on the apex about 1m onto the track. So, between those 3, I decided to mow down the cone and not damage my car/the other car. Right choice, but surprising result.  The car decided the cone was a small pedestrian so it blew the rear bonnet hinges up to protect their head in the upcoming person to car impact....I didn't see that coming and like an airbag deployment it happened super fast. Straight into the pits from there, everything was driving fine but it became clear it was a coolant leak not smoke, it was billowing up onto the windscreen. Onto the trailer and home. I'll do a separate thread about the repair (once I work out what it is ), but the immediate problem was the bonnet wouldn't open because the front was pinched onto the front bar and would not release. Ultimately we unbolted the hinge from the bonnet, pulled it back a little and it released from the front OK. "There's your problem", the top radiator hose had popped off at the radiator.
    • Yeah that looks like great caster, but I'd suggest trying less front camber some time and seeing if it helps with braking without reducing mid corner speed too much
    • I ended up setting the rear 5mm higher than normal to give some clearance.  My plan is to run the least camber I can in the rear which I think with the extra width is going to need to be -1.75 to -2.00° just to get clearance.  Guards have been rolled and pulled as much as they can/I would be wanting to.  front has the Acostal knuckle with the KPI change and the drop etc. So should be okay with the existing settings I have run with AR1s etc Front: Toe total -2mm(1mm out each side) Caster +7.5° Camber -3.8° Ackerman +15°
×
×
  • Create New...