Jump to content
SAU Community

Dealership Question

Black Dog
 Share

Recommended Posts

Black Dog Enthusiast

Black Dog

Posted
Posted

G'day all,

My first post of many I hope. I have been lurking around the forums for a week or so and have already gleamed a lot of useful info. So I thought it was about time I joined.

I was wondering if anyone has had any dealings with http://www.motorpointsydney.com.au

I'm thinking of going through them for a Skyline 370GT coupe. I live in another state, so I can't check them out personally.

Any info at all will be a big help.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/444073-dealership-question/
Share on other sites
Zveruga Enthusiast

Zveruga

Posted
Posted

Sorry for a stupid question but have you considered importing it yourself (using a respected broker), you may not get it cheaper but you'll definitely get better quality wise. Given you can't check the car in NSW, it's almost certainly better to get the car from Japan directly, if you are not in hurry and can wait for 2-3 months, of course.

Nightcrawler Grand Master

Nightcrawler

Posted
Posted

As per above - using a reputable importer like Iron Chef or Prestige Motorsport is the only good way to go.

If you HAVE to buy from a car yard (due to financing the car or if you are in a desperate hurry), then you MUST get the yard to supply the Japanese deregistration papers and auction documents to verify km. ALMOST EVERY car yard winds back odos and does dodgy shit. It is just a part of import life in Australia.

sonicii Veteran

sonicii

Posted
Posted

ALMOST EVERY car yard winds back odos and does dodgy shit. It is just a part of import life in Australia.

^^ This, bigtime. ask for the dereg papers and export certificate. if they baulk at this.. walk away.. If they are an honest dealer, they will have no problems supplying you these documents, and if they were the importer of the car, they WILL have them.

Black Dog Enthusiast

Black Dog

Posted
  • Author
Posted

My first choice was to import & yes it would be through the respected iron chef.

However this car came up unexpectedly & it has everything I want and I really don't think I would get it much cheaper through the Chef Master?

They have no probs supplying the paperwork, Dereg papers & auction papers. That's all the paperwork I would need isn't it? Also on that, how do you find out if the car itself has had anything happen to it in Japan? Things like storm/water damage or an accident etc. Would that be disclosed on the dereg papers?

I was initially going to fly there and have a look personally at the car, but I've changed my mind now. Instead I will ring RAA & get them to send an independent mechanic to look over the vehicle for me.

The car itself is a 2011 with around 11,000 km on the clock, so I wouldn't think there would be anything to worry about? Famous last words right.... Bloody better not be.

Surely I'm not the only one that's gone through an Australian car dealer?

If they supply all of the above, please let me know if you all think its still a terrible idea to go through them.

Cheers

Nightcrawler Grand Master

Nightcrawler

Posted
Posted

By SEVS rules, and previous damage (water or otherwise) would make the car inegligible for import/compliance, so you would assume this is a non-issue.

Still, get the car checked out by a reputable source (they don't have RAA in Syd btw).

If they are happy to supply dereg and auction papers, and you are happy wiht the price, then go for it.

Zveruga Enthusiast

Zveruga

Posted
Posted (edited)

The car itself is a 2011 with around 11,000 km on the clock, so I wouldn't think there would be anything to worry about? Famous last words right.... Bloody better not be.

Having bought several cars in Japan (not only my Skyline) I would do due diligence very carefully on this one. Economic of cars on auctions of that age and mileage favors private buyers rather than dealers, these cars are just too expensive for dealers to buy them to keep at their yard as not every average guy passing by showroom would easily spot the difference between cars done 11k and 80k and since latter ones are significantly cheaper on auctions, it is just too easy for anyone familiar with the procedure to wound back the odometer and pocket additional $5k for no effort at all.

I would ask for the dereg papers and auction sheet, verify in statistics that the sheet is not tampered and then make decision whether to proceed or hold.

Again, there are guys who do things right (Bespoke comes to mind) but some don't

Edited by Zveruga
Nightcrawler Grand Master

Nightcrawler

Posted
Posted

^^^ agreed. But this one with such incredibly low km should be VERY easy to spot if it has been wound back. Basically, as an 11,000km car every single thing should be basically brand new. Should be pretty easy to spot if things are worn beyond the km.

dodgyimports Enthusiast

dodgyimports

Posted
Posted (edited)

I was wondering if anyone has had any dealings with http://www.motorpointsydney.com.au

Motor Point = Sports Auto Group = Elite Motorsports = All Imports

Several physical locations but all part of the one group. Watch their stock for a few weeks and you'll notice it gets shared around between the sites.

Of the above, SAG and All Imports already have a reputation, ask around - search this forum and other large clubs focussed around imports.

If you must buy from a dealer always ask for BOTH auction sheet and de-registration paperwork. If they won't give you both documents, walk away or get hold of these documents via an online services before handing over your money.

Edited by dodgyimports
Nightcrawler Grand Master

Nightcrawler

Posted
Posted

If they remotely have ANYTHING to do with All Imports, then stay away as far as possible. In fact run and hide.

And, if it seems to good to be true, then it normally is. Warning bells went off in my head when you said you couldn't bring one in through Kristian cheaper - obviously there is something seriously wrong there, when the dealers need to make AT LEAST $5k-$10k out of each car.

Black Dog Enthusiast

Black Dog

Posted
  • Author
Posted

If they remotely have ANYTHING to do with All Imports, then stay away as far as possible. In fact run and hide.

And, if it seems to good to be true, then it normally is. Warning bells went off in my head when you said you couldn't bring one in through Kristian cheaper - obviously there is something seriously wrong there, when the dealers need to make AT LEAST $5k-$10k out of each car.

Nah I didn't say for sure I wouldn't get one cheaper through Iron Chef. I said I didn't think I would get it much cheaper? I have been dealing with Troy from Iron chef and he has been outstanding. I have also shown him the details of this vehicle and price etc.

Now I don't know what to do.... Arggh.

This will be the first import vehicle I would be buying, so I bloody hope I get it right.

Thanks everyone for all the info. It really has been helpful and has given me plenty to think about. One good suggestion I came across on here was to get it checked out independently by Tunehouse in Marrickville Sydney (if they do that?) since I won't be there in person.

Anyone think that's a good idea?

Also I have sent a PM to Kristian to get his thoughts on the matter, so hopefully I get a reply. As I would still like to go through them but this car does seem like a good deal.

If anyone still has more thoughts on the matter and about Tunehouse idea please let me know.

Also I have no drama sharing the pics and price with anyone that has more experience than me, so you can gauge for yourself if I'm making the right decision.

Thanks again,

Paul

GTR-N1 Grand Master

GTR-N1

Posted
Posted

Your heart leans towards this Motorpoint car.

Your head should tell you that "AllImports" begat a new 'mushroom' in "Sports Auto Group" which begat a new 'mushroom' called "Elite" which in turn begat another 'mushroom' in "Motor Point" > except that what looks like a 'mushroom' could in fact be a 'toadstool'.

Did anyone mention "poison"?

PS. PM any SAU.NSW Exec about what might show up in their "Rogues & Villains" thread!

Zveruga Enthusiast

Zveruga

Posted
Posted

One good suggestion I came across on here was to get it checked out independently by Tunehouse in Marrickville Sydney (if they do that?) since I won't be there in person.

Anyone think that's a good idea?

Get two papers from the yard first: the auction sheet and export certificate, if you are not sure what to do then just post them here, there are many sources where these papers can be checked, I can try to give you original auction sheet for any auction in Japan if you give me the lot number, auction and dates. If something is wrong with papers then it does not make sense to spend any money on mechanics.

Black Dog Enthusiast

Black Dog

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Your heart leans towards this Motorpoint car.

Your head should tell you that "AllImports" begat a new 'mushroom' in "Sports Auto Group" which begat a new 'mushroom' called "Elite" which in turn begat another 'mushroom' in "Motor Point" > except that what looks like a 'mushroom' could in fact be a 'toadstool'.

Did anyone mention "poison"?

Exactly that, I think my heart was taking over. It looks like a damn hot car.... As for the condition, relative to the low K's, it really is immaculate, in fact it looks brand new, inside & out, as you would expect.

However my head has listened to all of you and I have decided against buying it. So thank you everyone for your much appreciated thoughts and comments. What a great site this is :)

So it's back to my first and preferred choice and that is to import through Iron Chef.

I will keep you all posted how it goes and show off my baby once I get her.

Cheers, Paul

Black Dog Enthusiast

Black Dog

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Get two papers from the yard first: the auction sheet and export certificate, if you are not sure what to do then just post them here, there are many sources where these papers can be checked, I can try to give you original auction sheet for any auction in Japan if you give me the lot number, auction and dates. If something is wrong with papers then it does not make sense to spend any money on mechanics.

I know to get a copy of the De-Reg and Auction Papers. You mention though an Export Certificate? Is this something completely different then the papers I have mentioned?

When I ask for them I want to make sure I sound like I know what I'm talking about ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • MBS206
      Starting again

      By MBS206 · Posted

      The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
    • MBS206
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Just like in being 14mm too small (296mm) makes it not fit, being 14mm too big (324mm) it also won't fit. You want to find the correct rotor.
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      @GTSBoy Ok so that was the shops problem...they showed R33 rotors on R34 page and i did not know 296 do not fit(and are for R33) Yes i bought "kit" with rotors and pads. Pads are ok(i have GTT calipers front and rear). They have some 324mm but no 310mm. So i dont know if they would fit. I have 17inch LMGT4s So another question. Can i fit those in the rear or they are just "too" big for that?
×
×
  • Create New...