Jump to content
SAU Community

Expected Performance?


Recommended Posts

Heya all, i've not had my Gtst long, and i'll be testing it next week, and wanted to get some idea of the figures i'd *expect* to see, within reason.... Afaik, it's not been tuned/touched etc since JustJap originally did the mods in Jan 2003

I'm still very much learning about 'lines - any recommended mods to improve from this point?

It's a '96 S2 Gtst with the following mods:

Mines Ecu (used)

T04 (recon)

Nismo Fuel Reg

3" Cat Converter

What I can guess as 'normal' turbo ducting etc..

(Pics : http://212.42.1.197/Zeb/line/bonnet1.jpg - http://212.42.1.197/Zeb/line/bonnet2.jpg - http://212.42.1.197/Zeb/line/line.jpg )

Tia -

Zeb

Link to comment
Share on other sites

After a bit of digging, and some great help from JustJap, (actually remembered my line :-D )

It's a T3/T4 Hybrid, with enlarged/bored out sections (Front and back), to increase flow. (Steel rather than ceramic)

He wasn't sure of exactly what size, and i'm not pulling it out ;-)

Hope that helps

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well the mines ECU may cause problems over 6000rpm due to less octane fuel in australia (assuming it was originally tuned in japan)

Depending on tuning and turbo, ide say 210-230rwkw fairly easily on about 14psi

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, the mines was added after import, at the same time as the turbo, intercooler etc... But god knows about the tuning....

(I always run on 98 octane, you can *really* feel the diff if i've had to put 95 in... )

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Its 99% likely that the Mines ECU is set up for japanese conditions IE 100+octane fuel and way colder conditions

So running 98 which is the best octane we have here, at high boost and high rpm will see some problems

My advise;

Before doing anything with/to the car, put it on a dyno and see if theres any problems

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's exactly what's happening on thursday :headspin: Dyno incoming :-D

You would have thought in Bathurst, that there would be loads of decent mechanics/workshops etc..... Had hells own trouble finding decent ppl :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have seen about 4 Mines ECU's and all were very rich and not particularly aggressive in their tune. No speed cut was good, raised rev limit was a waste of time, boost cut removed was good, otherwise not such a good thing. :thumbdwn:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ok... done the dyno, am feeling a little dissapointed, as was expecting more.....

Max 227.8 HP :-(

I'll scan the plots in tomorrow, and hopefully SydKid etc could decipher it for me ;-)

The good news is that the power curve is pretty linear, (excluding end drop off )

It does look like Sydkid was right one one side, about top end revs on the ECU lacking, but.. it was running a little lean according to them....

Will get the scans done tomorrow...

I could be missing something here, but it looks pretty good for a start... (if on the low side)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i got a 141rwkw (189HP) with stock series 2 including stock exhaust and boost. You should be getting up near 180-180 at least with aftermarket turbo and an ecu chip. what exhaust do you have? it just says 3" cat. what boost are u running the t04 at?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The runs were done at 13psi, and looking at the limited paperwork I have, They fitted a 'front exhaust pipe, exchange exhaust system, and a 3" cat convertor'

Not much more detail than that, i'm afraid.

(Will get the scan(s) done this morning)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here's the plots :

Plot & Torque Showing  

Plot & Mixture ??  

Can anyone help with translating these plots into something I can readily understand, so I can look to improve this?

Excuse me if I sound like a complete noob, I am  :Oops:

Typical Mines ECU, stable A/F ratios but simply too rich. They need to be between 12 and 12.5, not mid 11's. The ignition timing will be similar, solid but too retarded. Did you get a boost graph?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the comeback SydKid, I'll pop in to them tomorrow and see if they did do one.

The two graphs were all they gave me.

If I was looking to up the overall power etc, would I be looking at changing the ECU & Retuning? or would it be a lot more involved?

(I'd love to get to the 350 *ish* HP, but i have no idea if that's a realistic goal with the current setup. )

If so, what sort of ECU would be idea? Something like a Wolf3d?

Tbh, I've got about 5-10K I could throw at the car if needed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Power FC would be my choice and with a decent intercooler and fuel pump there is no reason why 225 rwkw (300 rwhp) would not be easily obtained. With larger injectors and an AFM upgrade (to Z32) 250-260 rwkw (350 rwhp) is there for the taking. There are pleny of threads on this sort of upgrade path, do a search, I am sure you will find all that you need to know. :cheers:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Which injectors are you using? It's likely the fuelling is off also, so as above.
    • Awesome to know. I have a Series 1, and When pulling my front bumper off for the first time i realised my reo/crash bar was a bit worse for wear, and was going to try pick up a better one soon just so i can replace it. Someone is selling a full series 2 front bar and brackets for a decent price, so was going to probably reuse my brackets and install the new second hand reo/crash bar. I also have a genuine Altia body kit to do up, spray and put on, and not sure if that will use the series 1 or series 2 brackets for the front bumper, so having both will be handy, and knowing i can drill holes out to make stuff fit between series is also handy to know!
    • I should also say that the while they are different the only parts that matter are the center headlight supports and center bar from S1 to S2. The center bar will work, but the S1 has holes that clips go through into the S1 bumper. So if you were super cheap you could simply drill the S2 bar. Same thing with the side/wings. They have slightly different 'clips' but can be made to work. The center headlight brackets however, cannot. This is also where the GTR differs, which has a different center bar, and different headlight supports (to either GTT system), it also has different 'wing' headlight supports which is what I am calling under the headlight. However those CAN be made to work with the GTT Reo for a GTR front bar by a small spacer and a drill/tapping a thread into the reo because the bolt positions are slightly different. So people only really need the center brackets to go between GTT S1, GTT S2, and GTR if you are happy to do some tinkering.
    • Indeed  😃  Appears the site is back up now (migrated not updated) - kudos @funkymonkey & @PranK
    • If this, then this You can't really get away without it. There are hacks that you can do in Nistune, but things are much easier with the sensor than without it. If you're not planning to Nistune the ECU, then stop right now and add it to your plan anyway, because the ECU is going to shit the bed over the missing ABS and TC computers that it expects to see, and you need Nistune to stop it chucking all its toys over the side of the crib.
×
×
  • Create New...