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i've been having a problem with my RB20Det l8ly where it runs like bog till it reaches the normal temp mode.

To be sure it will run right i have to let car sit and idle for about 10min everyday b4 i drive it, much sooner and it won't rev freely but feel rather like the exhaust is clogged and then backfires at the engine end. When i try to drive it b4 its fully heated it simply won't go and has absolutly no power, hesitates alot!!

And wierd thing is as soon as its fully heated at about normal operating temp on the temp guage, it runs fine, revs fine and everything, if anything just a little hesitent for a few kms then disappears but still keeps the annoying intermintent missfire

what would be the problem? temp sensor or CPU cold start? on the diagnostics it keeps coming up with code 13 (coolant temp sensor) and is still after i've replaced the temp sensor with a new one. What should i look for now?

Hiya,

Might be worth checking this thread:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=39113

Also, its probably a good idea to do a sensor check. If this is too daunting then I can't recommend the NissDatascan enough. Installed one on my GTR Friday ( by installed I mean I plugged it into the consult port) & works very well.

Displays 8 engine parameters on the screen out of

- RPM

- AFM voltage (2 for my GTR)

- Speed [miles/kph]

- Injector Pulse Width

- Injector Duty Cycle (%)

- Water/Coolant Temp Sensor (°C & F)

- Ignition timing

- Throttle Position (voltage & %)

- 02 sensor (voltage, + lean/rich)

- AAC Valve position (%)

- Battery Voltage

- Flags (a/c compresser on?, Power steering pump on?, Neutral Gear Selected?, Closed TPS)

- More Flags (A/C Relay on?, Fuel Pump on?, VCT Solenoid on?, Termo fans on?)

- More Flags (P/reg on?, Wastegate valve on?, IACV-FICD on ?, Egr on?

Hence you can diagnose most problems straight away. Saves dropping into mechanic & having them tinker around & recommend replacement parts.

I'll take a few photos tomorrow & do up a review when I get hold of a laptop to test the logging.

Nissan Datascan is great, however dont rely on it as the only way to diagnose problems. It once told me my AFM readings were within spec when my car was running rough. After spending alot of money and time trying to fix it, i finally pulled the AFM out and cleaned it just on the off chance it might correct the problem. It did.

Proof that technology is no replacement for good old fashioned mechanic'ing! :)

Oh and to reply to the topic, it seems a heap of R32's have this problem (including my own), except mine doesnt backfire when cold, that seems a little strange. Mine does however lack power and surges up and down until the temp needle is nearly in the middle of the guage. I just drive like a grandma until it warms up... not a bad thing to do regardless!

Red17

well i've done a bit of checkin of things.

did compression test got 140,145,145,150,140,140 or somthing similar (btw was on a guage that was a bit out as it was reading 50 even when not in use so basically we were just minusing the 50 from the readings to get what i got). Does that sound about right for a 1989 rb20det with about 170,000kms on the clock?

also noticed that one of the coil packs is actually one from a rb25 and had different numbers on it, so i'm guess its the problem causing the missfire. the banging when cold is actually a backfire which i double checked with some mates who also believe it is. Also as its still reading code 13 coolant temp sensor circuit, we believe that the problem for the coldstarts till about the norm temp of >60 degrees are probally been caused from the wiring as i've changed the sensor.

so tomor i'm prob gonna get around to replacing coil pack and re hardwiring the sensor in to the computer directly with some new wire and see how it goes.

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