Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Theres a plug in the engine bay, just in front of the fuse/relay box. It joins the gearbox harness to the rest of the car. Mine was dirty and my reverse lights sometimes went funny then all of a sudden stopped

Simplistically, I would imagine the following:

Switch at the g/box

globe at the rear of car

fuse in the engine bay

and wiring to join it all together...

If you've multi'd the switch (when closed!), checked that the globes actually light up under a power source, then there is only the the wiring and the fuse to check.

That being said, did you check the switch for continuity? I found with my box/switch (R33 RB25), the only way I could verify that the switch was good was using a test light and a mini 12V battery.

Multimeter did not display/sound continuity unless powered!

Edited by R32Abuser

My reverse lights work for a second when I put it into reverse then go off. Not sure what it is they used to work when I pulled and held the gear leaver back but now they only work for the second when I first put it into reverse. Any one had this before? Thanks

Locate - Yes.

Troubleshoot - depends on how mechanically/electrically minded you are!

There is a plug at the reverse switch (on the gearbox) and in the engine bay where it joins back into the wiring loom.

Ground - I'd have to take a look and the wiring diagram to see exactly where the circuit is grounding. Something I neither have the time or the patience for at this time of the night.

Edited by R32Abuser

After checking everything again, still couldn't find the fault >.

What did you "check" and how?

He also checked everything and still doesn't work. ....

Something isn't being checked correctly.

Agreed.

As I said above, I had issues testing the circuit without having reverse selected and powered. Otherwise I got nothing...

Edited by R32Abuser

I've had the wiring diagram out

There is a plug at the tail-lights (obviously), a plug drivers side top front of boot (this may be out of sight inside the guard, I'm not real sure), the plug at the front which I mentioned before and then the plug at the switch on the gearbox

I cant find what fuse it is tee-ed off, but there are a fair few things powered off the same circuit like the de-fogger relay (rear window) so if thats working I dare say the power source is O.K.

Basically just need to test the switch, or bridge out the plug to eliminate the switch completely. Get the lights working without the switch and then you can see if the switch works. If you have power at the switch harness, then the earth is at the tail lights. If you have all the other lights + number plate lights then Earth is most likely not your problem, the Earth is common to all of them.

OP has already said he has tested the switch and it is O.K.

My switch could test fine to, i could also wiggle the gear stick while in reverse and get reverse lights going for a few seconds. Was very weird new switch fixed it. No idea if that's OP problem. Just a thought

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sold listed as a Tomei LSD 1.5 Way For 1998+ Nissan Skyline ER34 25GT RB25DE w/Open R200 https://www.ebay.com/itm/174006114594?campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms=&campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=71883f2ccc571356e0a757bc7adfdde2&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms= it went in like butter all gears, alignment, back lash etc, rotation and clearances correct, and if rolling all rotates smooth and free when coasting down road , clutch in or out over 10 mph smooth... its the binding, clunking and jerking from a stop that is most concerning, also seems like its going to tear the tires off in 10 miles of normal road driving. 
    • What 1.5 way? There's no such thing really as a 1.5 way, just different ways of explaining 2 ways with different ramp rates. HOWEVER. In any driving in a straight line your 1.5 or 2 or 1.7 way should have no clunking at all. With the clutch fully depressed the diff should be silent (unless it's welded but I'm assuming it's not). Something aint right here.
    • Clutch is a spec brand, new clutch system,( PP, flywheel, friction disc, etc. pull type) installed 100 miles ago, with no problems.
    • looking for some help and maybe some insight on others experience with a new LSD. R34 GT ran and drove beautifully, but always alot of grip loss due to the open R200 rear end, so I just installed a new 1.5 LSD way into the stock open R200 for a ER34. Simple. Everything seemed right. I test drove for the first time this weekend. as I started to back out the garage the first time slowly with tires straight it sounded and felt like I had a loose or half disconnected drive shaft...that was clucking around loose and shaking entire vehicle, and making it feel like the trans clutch was spontaneously slipping then grabbing very roughly while just letting out pedal slowly. I backed it out went to pull forward with the same noise, shake and slip grab feeling with hesitation, I turned the tires to back out more and then pulled ahead some same thing but worst because of added wheel resistance (which that I expected) puzzled … pulling it back in checking everything over and finding nothing wrong, I tried it the next day. same thing, couldn’t believe how it shook everything again making a terrible noise and making it feel like the trans clutch was slipping and grabbing, but I got it out of garage into the driveway, got it straight, drove forward and then reveres a few times in a straight line everything shaking , causing what felt like clutch slip and grab every time, sounded like right behind front driver tire and I could feel it in the floor board with my feet,... worst right when beginning to let clutch pedal out to engage slightly, shuttering and sounding terrible along the way…I managed to slowly get down the road, babying it the whole way, once I was rolling (out of 1st) seemed to be better and between shifts, then clutch felt closer to normal…not slip/ grab etc., but back down to any stop, straight road or turning, same thing. Made no difference if all tires were straight or if I was turning. All other gauge read out correct. with in 2 miles as planned I reached the empty parking lot and performed the break in procedure that came with lsd, essentially to drive in a figure 8 a bunch.  Did this, binding chattering, and shaking the car the whole way. I drove it back home seemed somewhat normal once I was in straight line and past 10 mph or so, and I know it will “bind” on corners and cause some tires squeal when turning especially from a stop, but when I begin to move it still causes what feels like the trans clutch to slip and jerk badly as well as shaking the entire car, and sounds terrible, that I didn’t expect. I used the fluid they supplied with LSD kit and did the breaking, planning to change fluid as they suggest after breaking, but wondering will it get smoother or less aggressive with use? maybe a 1.5 is just too aggressive for normal road driving?   I have a LSD that I put in my 71 cuda when I restored it, with amazing smooth , quite yet effective results. Different style LSD but that ones a joy to drive. maybe expecting too much from this R200?
    • Join SAU NSW for a flame-grilled feed & flame-spitting cruise! Sunday 17th August 2025 3:30PM Meeting Archies Flame Grille Sylvania Waters 4:45PM Cruise Departure 5:15PM Arrival at Cape Solander Kurnell Meet Location: Archies Flame Grille Final Destination: Cape Solander Kurnell *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
×
×
  • Create New...