Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok I have searched so please don't flame me. Nothing has shown up I. My searches with a clear anwser to my question

So obviously car in question s1 33 gtst. Standard rotors. (Fronts are ok rears have a little lip)

Brake pads have squeeled like a bitch when I got them. They have gotten worse (4 - 5 months of owning it). I remember having a quick look and they had heaps of meat so I assumed possibly shit pads it's only ever when it was cold. A few stops and she was fine

Now every light every stop it's loud and getting on my nerves

Now I drive my car pretty hard. And I drift on the occasion. Sometimes at the track. Sometimes at my personal area? If you want to call it that. (This car hasn't seen track yet.)

I don't intend to do any circuit racing or anything that requires the breaks of a supercar

So my question is

Is it worth the money to get slotted and drilled rotors. And if so what ones are worth getting? To suit my needs as stated above

And then the second is obviously what pads

I've always used bendix as far as I know. Trying to get something with minimal dust and ZERO SQUEEL

My budget is pretty mild at the moment. But if it's going to do me a great deal to get something a bit more pricey well I won't tight arse out

But i would rather not waste money on discs and pads that don't help my situation

I also do frequent burnouts

But I'm not the type to ride my brakes down mountains until they are cherry

Thanks in advance and please try not to flame me if that's possible

IBTL

But srsly- slotted rotors are cheap as chips from places like RDA (or eBay) so u might as well.

Get a set of those, decent fluid and some QFM or Bendix Ultimate pads and you will be set.

Braided brake lines if you have extra $.

As for "zero squeal" - make sure u have the anti rattle shims in place, clean everything well when replacing and lube the pad sliders.

Or harden up.

GSL RALLYSPORT... Cheap and have some good gear...

Don't do dumb shit on the street, or at least if you do dont advertise it on this forum... Ever!

Naww dude,

Telling people you are hardcore is so hardcore

I have an erection at the thought of someone drifting a whale on the street.

This cannot be unseen :woot:

As for "zero squeal" - make sure u have the anti rattle shims in place, clean everything well when replacing and lube the pad sliders.

Or harden up.

This.

I run Project Mu HC+ pads (a pad that isn't famous for being whisper quiet OR minimal dust) in my Riceline and the only time they "squeeled like a bitch" is when I am bedding them in.

Lol so I get flamed anyways. This is why people don't post on forums anymore....

As for drifting in other places

Blame the government and council I live along way from eastern creek. Oran park wasn't so bad until they canned it.

I live rural on a low salary. Most times it's on my property anyways.

People arnt stupid. I wouldn't be the only person who's cut loose somewhere other then a track. Just tried to give an idea. How much abuse the pads and rotors will see

Also whoever asked again

I googled all last night. Without a straight answer.

Hence this post

Well forget Google and get on the phone to GSL Rallysport and all the answers will magically appear :)

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If it dies, then bypass. The task isn't difficult. I have one running on a standard R32 FPCM. That's after nearly 20 years of it running an 040, which pull substantially more current than the Walbro. They're not the same module, but I'd hope it indicates that the R33 one should be man enough for the job. I think people kill them when putting proper sized pumps on them, not these little toy pumps we're talking about here.
    • Silicone spray won't hurt anything. And if it does, that's an opportunity to put some solid steel spherical bushings in, so you can really learn what suspension noise sounds like, If you're going to try it, just spray one bush at a time, so you can work out which one is actually noisy. My best guess is that if the noise started only since putting the coilovers in, then it is just noise being transmitted up through the top mounts of the struts, and not necessarily "new" noise from bushes. But it's almost impossible to know.
    • Are you saying the 34 is SUV height, and not that we're talking about an SUV here? (because if we're talking about an SUV, you don't fix them. You just replace them when something breaks. Not worth establishing sufficient emotional connection with an SUV to warrant doing any work on one). I wouldn't jack my car up on a short little loop of 10mm steel rod poking out through a hole in the bumper bar, front or rear end. I realise that we're probably not talking about that type of loop at the front, being the one under/behind the bar on a Skyline.... but even for that one, trying to jack up on what amounts to a thin piece of steel, designed purely for withstanding a horizontal tension force, not a vertical compressive force (and so would be prone to buckling/crushing) and, my most particular bitch about it - located RIGHT AT THE EXTREME FRONT OF THE CAR, applying a load up through the radiator support panel, etc, with almost the entire mass of the car cantilevered between there and the rear wheels? Nope. Not doing that. Not on the regular. That structure out there in front of the front crossmember is not designed to carry load in the vertical direction. Not really designed to carry any load at all, really. The chassis rail that the tow point is connected to would be fine loaded in tension, as per towing. Not intended to carry the mass of the whole car, especially loaded all on one rail, with twisting and all sorts of shitty load distribution going on. No, I will happily drive up on some pieces of wood, thanks. That can only happen on driven wheels, and they are at the other end of the car, and this problem does not exist at that end of the car. And even then, I have been known to drive up on at least 1x piece of 2x8 each side at the rear, simply to reduce the amount of jack pumping necessary to get the car up high enough for the jack stands. What really really shits me about Skylines is the lack of decent places for chassis stands at either end of the car. You'd think they'd be designed into the crossmembers.
    • I've got MCA Blues on my V36 Skyline, and while I've managed to sort out issues with scrubbing/bottoming out by raising it a smidge and increasing the damping hardness, the rear end still sounds *super* noisy when driving on anything other than the flattest surface imaginable. It sounds like a small party of flamingos are just chatting away in the back, which makes me think there are several link points in the suspension contributing to the noise. Am I hearing dried out/worn bushings? None of it sounds like metal-on-metal, it sounds more like hard rubber squeaking on metal. It's been suggested that a bit of silicon spray on each bushing might quiet them down, but I'm not sure what material the current bushings are made of (probably factory, I imagine) and whether silicon spray will degrade that material.
    • The obvious answer here is get a ND2/3 RF with the Targa top. The red is nicer, too!
×
×
  • Create New...