Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I've recently had some work done to my r32 gtr, (larger injectors, boost increase, adjusted cams) and have had a retune (nistune).

I've driven the car and competed in a hill climb, and all is well, however all of a sudden was unable to start the car.

After investigating- turns out the injectors are high impedance not low (was advertised as direct replacement - I guess that doesn't mean anything!). I've now removed the resistor and it's now running again.

So my long winded question is - would it need to be retuned now the injectors are getting correct ohms/power?

Or doesn't it make a difference? Was strange how it was running well for a week....

This is weird. I wired a power fc for a gtr to work in a gtst. I got it and it all worked good. Of course I had no vtc. What I learned was that all rb ecu wants to see a high impedance resistance. The rb25 are high impudence injectors and the gtr rb26 are low but the gtr has a resistor pack to boost the low impedance injectors to a high ohm reading. So in short all ecu's wants to see high impedance signal. I really think nissan thought peopel wouldn't get this. Lol. If you have high impedance injectors on a rb26 ecu.?? Just get rid of the resistor pack (rewire) it and you will be ok. From a resistance stand point.

Edited by MJTru

Um....Marcus....that's exactly what he said and did.

OP.......Yes, retune. The opening behaviour of the injectors will be different without the resistor - effectively the latency will probably be changed the most - so it will affect light load mixtures more than high load, but still worrth doing.

Awesome - thanks for the help guys.

Such a pain in the backside - as it only just came back from the tuner!

So are the injectors slower to open? I'd hate to be driving it running too lean...

Um....Marcus....that's exactly what he said and did.

OP.......Yes, retune. The opening behaviour of the injectors will be different without the resistor - effectively the latency will probably be changed the most - so it will affect light load mixtures more than high load, but still worrth doing.

Yes GTSBoy I agree thats what he was saying. I may have missed somthing tho. A rule of thumb for me is. Any mods to fuel or air should be mapped and retuned. Intresting info GTSBoy as I never thought it would affect the injectors the way you mentioned it. I will be looking into this. Also intresting to know it would make more difference in the down low area. Hmmmm

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The car remains in paint jail. I am now pretty convinced that the whole "RB25 Airboxes are kinda limiting to ~300kw" could be a thing. Also saw a good video from Engine Masters: (Sorry for FB link) (https://www.facebook.com/watch/?ref=search&v=761771519471924&external_log_id=c10bcbb6-2c39-4ff3-9240-287e9921fde6&q=Cold Air Considerations) Where they tested Pod Filter sizes and kept adding bends to a LS3 on an Engine Dyno to find if bends caused power loss. It's a good video worth watching - They did lose ~25hp from making an intake which had 3x90's and a 120 degree. They only lost maybe 1hp with a basic 90. I feel that by sealing up my airbox I have: 1) Created the same restriction a stock airbox would have. 2) Created a very convoluted set of intake 'pipes' by forcing all the air through the ducts. So I am pretty confident I'll be going full circle and have a huge hot air intake pod and actually see a benefit. The air does *not* stay hot once it gets flowing, aided by the ducts, and the pod can then pull air from anywhere. All the posts of yore talk about the stock airbox costing 10-15kw at 300kw+ but you know what? I f**king would very much like that 10-15kw and I remember my own pod filter in engine bay experiences. Turns out the GTT Reo and Headlight brackets really don't allow you to mount GTR items, no matter what the internet says. Various brackets have had to be made up to actually make it fit right for the front bar. Also some idiot mounted a 3L Accusump right where the bumper wants to go, so that has had to be 'relocated' To where, I am still not sure, but it's supposedly mounted in the pictures and I can't see it.
    • Sounds like the oil pressure light is wired into the oil temp sensor... As it warms up, resistance on temp sensor reduces, hence more current can flow and the dash light gets brighter.
    • Got the front subframe and suspension in.    
    • If it's cold in summer, then no issue. If it's cutting out every few seconds and you're not reaching your target temp, then there's an issue. One could be the pressure switch and the other issue could be the temp probe inside the evaporator.
×
×
  • Create New...