Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi

i just brought a dump/front pipe in 1. I was wondering should i fit it myself,

has anyone installed it by there self. the only problem i can see is getting to the bottom bolts were it join's to the turbo do you get those from undernith. also

can you use the factory gaskets? would i be just wasting my time? and get someone else to put it in.

any thoughts

Where did you get the front+dump in one? CES?

How much?

You need to jack the front up and put on stands, dont leave on jack cos you need to yank at the bolts pretty hard

The rest u just get from the top, i havent done it, been seen it being done, bolts are really hard to get off

For starters they are Nuts that you have to undo from the back of the turbo, not bolts.

Make sure you spray PLENTY of WD40 or a product that we get up here called "Bolt Off" its a penetrating spray that makes rusted nuts/bolts easy to undo. If you don't do this, then there is a good chance you will snap one of the 10+ year old studs.

If the gasket is old and looks worn, buy a new one. I would also recommend buying a tube of exhaust sealant that can be purchased from any automotive place.

I have just fitted a dump pipe a few weeks ago and it wasn't to hard the hardest part of this was welding up a new plate to the exhaust so the dump pipe could be bolted up to the exhaust.

I had to make a new plate cause the standard one which was welded back onto the 3.5 inch exhaust ages ago was too small and restrictive.

The bolts on the back of the turbo was easy to remove just get under thge car and add a little wd4 and let that soak in and off come the nuts!

removing the heat sheilds suck cause the bolts are brittle and can snap off.

otherwise it is a easy swap!

hey my dad and i fitted mine ourselves

we drove the front of the car up onto car ramps to get to the bolts on the underside of the turbo

BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN PUTTING THE BOLTS BACK ON!!!!!!!! we snapped a bolt, and had to drill through it and re-tap a thread so i could put a new bolt in! turned a 2 hour job into a 6 hour job! :rofl:

if you get an exhaust shop to di it it will take 30misn and you will be spewing when you hand the money over for hte little work they actually did!

also, we used the same gasket as its condition was fine and we had no exhaust leaks.

good luck!

Waz.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...