Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi

i just brought a dump/front pipe in 1. I was wondering should i fit it myself,

has anyone installed it by there self. the only problem i can see is getting to the bottom bolts were it join's to the turbo do you get those from undernith. also

can you use the factory gaskets? would i be just wasting my time? and get someone else to put it in.

any thoughts

Where did you get the front+dump in one? CES?

How much?

You need to jack the front up and put on stands, dont leave on jack cos you need to yank at the bolts pretty hard

The rest u just get from the top, i havent done it, been seen it being done, bolts are really hard to get off

For starters they are Nuts that you have to undo from the back of the turbo, not bolts.

Make sure you spray PLENTY of WD40 or a product that we get up here called "Bolt Off" its a penetrating spray that makes rusted nuts/bolts easy to undo. If you don't do this, then there is a good chance you will snap one of the 10+ year old studs.

If the gasket is old and looks worn, buy a new one. I would also recommend buying a tube of exhaust sealant that can be purchased from any automotive place.

I have just fitted a dump pipe a few weeks ago and it wasn't to hard the hardest part of this was welding up a new plate to the exhaust so the dump pipe could be bolted up to the exhaust.

I had to make a new plate cause the standard one which was welded back onto the 3.5 inch exhaust ages ago was too small and restrictive.

The bolts on the back of the turbo was easy to remove just get under thge car and add a little wd4 and let that soak in and off come the nuts!

removing the heat sheilds suck cause the bolts are brittle and can snap off.

otherwise it is a easy swap!

hey my dad and i fitted mine ourselves

we drove the front of the car up onto car ramps to get to the bolts on the underside of the turbo

BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN PUTTING THE BOLTS BACK ON!!!!!!!! we snapped a bolt, and had to drill through it and re-tap a thread so i could put a new bolt in! turned a 2 hour job into a 6 hour job! :rofl:

if you get an exhaust shop to di it it will take 30misn and you will be spewing when you hand the money over for hte little work they actually did!

also, we used the same gasket as its condition was fine and we had no exhaust leaks.

good luck!

Waz.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Long time since I've posted here. Looking for some advice on what I can remove to further identify the cause of my issues.  I can move the passenger seat forward and back but the knob used to adjust the seat angle is pretty much free spinning, there's very little resistance.  Removing the side cover I can see that the chain is intact but the shaft for the adjustment spins without the gear attached to it moving.  What's my next step for disassembly here? Is this a common fault? Just being a little cautious as I didn't want to start removing bolts for a spring to fly out or something equally as stupid.  Cheers
    • Those above shitboxes, mediocre and above usually have a turbo strapped to them, hence the slightly higher octane is required.  
    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
×
×
  • Create New...