Jump to content
SAU Community

Power Loss On Downshifts, Bouncing Idle And Slight Hesitation At Specific Rev Point -R34Gtt


Recommended Posts

That's good news.

Shit tune confirmed ...... flame suit on.

Unless it's the mysterious gates timing belt ignition scatter issue.

Edited by Ben C34
  • Like 1

Im hoping its a shit tune- despite taking my car to Unigroup 3 times, they just couldnt fix that bogging down prob, they went over but didnt touch the tune which they claimed is as good as it can be, their after-service is good.

I still have my pink label R34afm which I wana test though to see if the z32s farked. And maybe test the pcv valve cos boost went to the crankcase oil vapor vent area. And change O2 sensor.

what about a worn harmonic balancer/ key if it was moving or loose down there wouldn't that give some of the symptoms?

Edited by AngryRB

Yeh I was meaning change the powerfc settings to r34 afm after putting that in. Harnonic balancer/keys fine, I inspected that/ did the timing belt myself.

You guys still dont reckon my O2s shot? Drives much better with it off. It must have been richening my car like a pig in the past.

Also dont understand how my dipstick was never blown off while driving all the time at 22psi but now with the boost leak test at 19-20psi it shot off like a rocket! Lol

Keep it disabled then

Even if you choose the right afm you'll be surprised it might not run properly. If the afm was again rescale your fuelling will be off

The stock map sensor isn't referenced by the PFC as I said yesterday. Turn 02 feedback off. Like I said yesterday, your fuel economy usually won't change a great deal with a Unigroup tune. A new sensor is cheap enough and can be replaced at your leisure.

The PFC handcontroller item BOST (or whatever it is listed as) is for when you are using the Apexi boost controller IIRC.

What doesn't make sense is that you mentioned that you car was pinging...a rich environment won't cause it. There is something that isn't right with your ignition timing, I think. When it pings or idles crap is your engine noisey, like a belt shutter, noise, or something else. Sorry but what you are describing doesn't make sense.

A shame u don't live in nzwould have the datalogit plugged in and checked by now.... I'm beginning to suspect tune. Did they do your accelerator pump corrections if they were left stock it will go mega rich on gear changes.... Mine was going to the 9s before i tuned it out.

Thanks mate, so I will leave the O2 feedback off till I get new O2 sensor (I know irts preferrable not to have O2 enabled but my car was tuned with it, so its best I leave it ON? Or not, and heres my accelerator pump enrichment that you asked about, do the adjustments look ok?

post-49401-14070699620295_thumb.jpg

The O2 sensor should only be fine tuning the mixtures. It should be tuned woth it off to give the correct mixture, then turned on and checked after the tune is complete. It should barely make a difference on a properly tuned car whether off or on, especially immediately after being tuned.

Again, refer to your tuner. Ask him. He tuned it. We are guessing. It should be running 14.7 at cruise (pretty much) with or without the sensor. Which it doesn't seem to be due to your consumption.

i run my car with the o2 turned off permanently. those injector settings looks like stock settings. mine are attached but are for 850cc injectors....but they still make it fairly rich.

starting to sound like your tune didn't take everything into account. e.g wot & cruise only.

post-95424-0-06314800-1407103084.jpg

turn off your O2 feedback, better yet just disconnect it.

Tuners always turn it off when they are tuning to disable the trims.

as for your acceleration enrichment, just set it low and work your way up till the car stop buckling.. sometimes it worth adding in more decay.

you have to adjust these like any fuel trims with a wide band. you can log and see the effect of enrichment when lift off and mashing the pedal, this is what a tuner would do if they are doing a complete tune.

yeah different AFM different turbo = different values required

just write it all down, and start decreasing it for the RPM affected.. might actually reduce your buckling

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...