Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I am selling an R33 GTS-T Hybrid FMIC Kit

fitted for Brisbane folks @ $1250 or

Complete Kit only @ $1000 (you do the work...full day for novice)

They are 600 x 300 x 76 Bar and Plate design. Kit comes complete with annodised piping, all nuts and bolts and silicon connectors/reducers needed for installation.

Can send pics to show work done on my R33. Looks sweet and goes much harder, especially during the day when it's hotter and the car traditionally doesn't go as well.

Cheers,

C

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/44623-r33-gts-t-hybrid-fmic-kit-for-sale/
Share on other sites

Pictures would be good.

Also did you have to trim the front bar at all?

Post your email address and I shall send some pics for you.

Cut behind/backside of the bar - M-Spec (metal bar and Plastic front bar) as well as the side wall (engine bay) under the window washer bottle. No different from front. No unnecessary holes! looks great.

The only thing I had to change on the front bar was the location of the indicators and they look better now anyway.

I will also include a cold air intake for your pod filter if you have one and an M-Spec bar?

Cheers,

C

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you take the top half of the intake off you can unbolt the flap off the shaft and leave the shaft in there blocking the hole. Then you can remove the little vacuum canister off from under the manifold and get a spare vacuum line to run to the ECU. I can take some photos of it later. Probably best to get the vacuum source to the ECU sorted first though. Mine all worked mint with the base map from the GTT an I've pretty much let the closed loop sort the fueling and took 1 degree out of the whole timing map.
    • This IS something you also have to configure in Haltech (or at least I did in the past when going from onboard-to-ECU map sensor and an external MAP sensor in haltech land).
    • I'm hoping it's something as simple as the ECU is looking for an external MAP sensor, but he is trying to use the onboard MAP sensor.
    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
×
×
  • Create New...