Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

Thought you guys could help me with this.

Getting a GTR complianced and apprently there is a problem with xenon bulbs in the R34 - they are not auto-leveling and hence need to be converted to regular lamps. Ok fine, but when I asked the compliancer to give me the bulbs when he has finished the conversion he said he has to destroy them under government policy. He even mentioned that they will get audited in regards to destroying parts that need to be replaced on cars for compliance reasons.

I personnally think he is yanking my chain - how the hell is the government going to audit "garbage"? Will the compliancer need to keep an every growing pile of "useless" parts until he gets audited?

I just want to know what I should do. I figure the car is mine/the dealers before the compliance, therefor anything removed from it still belongs to the owner.

Thanks guys.

The complier is absolutely correct, they are only allowed to comply totally standard cars and non-standard bits have to be destroyed...and they need proof that they were destroyed.

However....it was really brought in to stop ppl having a big turbo or similar, pulling it off for compliance and then putting it back on straight afterwards.

As I understand it your best solution is to put standard lights in before it goes to the compliance workshop...then neither you nor they have a problem....

I'd make sure I was standing when he destroyed the bits, never know could be making big dollars selling them off on the side (some shonky people are still about!).

But yeah I'd change them out before it got complied.

i imported my skyline under the new import rule and i didnt get anything destroyed...car was put totally bak to stock...then i paid him just the labour to stick everything bak on after it passed the blue slip....doubt the goverenment cares if u have them or not they are more worried bout it bein complied with stock parts so it cost the buyer a shit load to change things bak and forth...

oh yeh i forgot.....wen i took it to the RTA road worthy centre place to ge it all checked out.....the guy didnt even notice that the racing arms were left on wen he checked the underbody and that it was missin the R33 S2 air box not the S1 air box.....shows u they dont really now wats meant to b on an import and wats not...

Pentae didn't u buy a R34 GTR? i'm sure GTi-R's never came with Xenons unless after market...

And there is more to it than just changing "the lights" If you swap bulbs, powerpacks must be un-hooked and new ones put in for halogen bulbs. Otherwise, 4 door R34 halogen light ASSEMBLY's are needed. The entire headlight assembly. Can't just throw halogens in.

My compliance place isn't sure what they're doing with this yet, i told them there is a evidence package around for swapping powerpacks and halogen bulbs. So hopefully, i can keep em.

cheers.

Gohan: No, didnt end up buying the R34 GTR.

My GTiR I purchased at the start of the year came with aftermarket Xenons.

flight: I'd say your compliancing house is just trying to go by the rules. It would be a national tragedy to not pass compliancing on a $80,000 GTR.

Pentae didn't u buy a R34 GTR? i'm sure GTi-R's never came with Xenons unless after market...

And there is more to it than just changing "the lights" If you swap bulbs, powerpacks must be un-hooked and new ones put in for halogen bulbs. Otherwise, 4 door R34 halogen light ASSEMBLY's are needed. The entire headlight assembly. Can't just throw halogens in.

My compliance place isn't sure what they're doing with this yet, i told them there is a evidence package around for swapping powerpacks and halogen bulbs. So hopefully, i can keep em.  

cheers.

The compliance place I am using is modified the existing assembly to accept halogens. Unsure about which specific components are being changed/removed. I will find out because inevitably I will be changing them back to xenons. Just want to find out how much it is going to cost me.

What do you mean by evidence pack?

thanks!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...