Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a 1993 R33 Gtst series 1 which I bought in June, the engine and ecu are completely stock (hard to believe I know) and the car runs completely fine... most of the time. About once every few weeks it will have a spasm and will not let me go past 2 and half rpm on any gear and jerks violently as if the revs are too high and just cuts the accelerator power once it tries to go past 2 and half rpm.

I am thinking along the lines of something to do with the turbo or maybe AFM, I was just wondering if this has happened to anyone else or if it is a common problem and if someone could offer me some ideas with with how to fix this problem.

Any help/ ideas/ input would be appreciated.

I have 2 videos I recorded today of this occurring but am unable to upload it as it is in mp4 format and am not sure how to convert it so it can be uploaded.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/448542-whats-wrong-with-my-r33-please-help/
Share on other sites

Sounds like an afm issue especially and the lower spectrum of the rpm. If you're handy with a solder you can crack it open and soldier all the joints inside it. Its not likely the element is damaged but more likely there's a cold solder in there. If that doesn't fix it then it might be a long road.

OP, post up a pic of the inside of the AFM if you want some opinions. The top of the box part is just glued on, bit of mucking around with a knife etc to get it off but not so hard. Should be able to see the problem if it needs a joint or 2 resoldered

it could be surging due to clogged injectors, run a $10 bottle of injector cleaner through your tank, fixed mine with similar problem and even if its not the problem at least you will have clean injectors

if it is the afm you may not see an obvious fault in the circuit board cos it could just be a dry solder joint so just hit each pad with the iron to make sure the pad is good, but i still think you should try injector cleaner cos it fixed my similar problem

No it's not a burn hole, its just glue.

So I ended up just re-soldering the 4 connection pins which you can see in the 3rd photo because I could see one of the pins looked like it wasn't connected properly. Hopefully this fixes the problem but it will be hard to tell because it was a rare occurrence in the first place.. so time will tell.

I like your idea of injector cleaner too Mick, I might do that as well since it's cheap and can't hurt by giving it a go also.

Thanks for your help gents, I'll let you know how it's going in a few weeks time.

  • 2 weeks later...

After re- soldering those 4 pins in the AFM I've been driving around Sydney quite a bit and the other day I drove Newcastle and back. My problem is fixed!

Thanks for the help!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is the territory of the "Stage 1/2/3 Golf GTI/R" or otherwise off the shelf tune with (relative to before) minor mods. It's easier now. Downpipe and Tune and boom, big increases. Stage 1 OEM+ is where it's at. This is where the niche evolved into and it's really easy to see why. It's rare to even NEED to consider changing turbos or going to aftermarket ECU's or building bottom ends for more power. Stage 1-2-3 will get you a LONG WAY. Civic Type R turbo GR Yaris/Corolla Anything with B58 (MKV Supra/x40i) Anything BMW in General Anything Audi in General Any turbo AMG RenaultSport Turbo offerings Korean Elantra N/I30N Ecoboost Mustangs Focus RS? List goes on. I would argue in the future it won't even need to go on... M3P is pretty rapid out of the box...
    • There is a way, but it's not with the same cars. You need to find the same vintage of car, that we had. Realistically, that was an affordable car with aftermarket parts around. So what people need to find is a car that had a decent base in its day, and can be modified. They're looking for a car year make of 2010 to 2015 really... Aus could have done it if Holden didn't fold as V8 commodores were cheap, and if Ford didn't get expensive thanks to COVID, then you could cheaply play with FG Barras. Realistically, those are just a bit heavier, four door skylines. I'm sure the US and UK have similar cars they could find.
    • Haha I do that.. thats when it chirps..The bit point for me is almost non-existent. Otherwise I stall it. But yes, in terms of performance, the clutch is solid af.
    • Greg speaks wisdom. These dirty old Datsuns are only value when they are cheap. When they are not cheap, there is no value. Sounds contradictory, but it's true. We are now 20 years past the hey day of modifying cheap 90s JDM cars for small amounts of money. This is a different world. If you are rich and can afford not to care about what is effectively wasting money on an old Datto shitter, then I have no reason to argue against it. But if you are wanting to experience what we all experienced back in 2005 (and I bought my car last century!) then there is no way to do it.
    • Short answer: No. Medium answer: No, because you still need to conjure the things out of thin air to bolt them to a NA to make it a NA+T. Long Answer: No - The things you need to conjure - meaning a turbo, intercooling, manifolds, exhaust, intake/manifold/piping, clutch, injectors, fuel pump, AFM (?), ECU + Wiring (woo, N/A loom fun) have to come from somewhere. You could have many scavenged these things from an OEM car that someone had upgraded from and use some of these. This will be cost prohibitive now, especially so in the USA. You'd probably pay the same for newer, upgraded components that are better than old OEM stuff from 25-30 years ago. None of these big ticket items are re-usable for the N/A car. Why not buy new and upgrade while you're there? The only real consideration is turbo and fuel sizing and determining whether you want to stay within the bounds of the OEM engine or get into rebuild territory. These limits ARE lower with a N/A motor and especially N/A gearbox at the starting point. And if you're gonna upgrade those then you may as well consider having them built to begin with. Because everyone here knows you're never far from that next engine rebuild once you start making the power you want... The cars you see on the internet and SAU etc have been built over decades. If you're really clued in... you would sell your US car to somebody for what you paid for it. You would then scour AU JDM pages or SAU and buy a car like Dose's on this forum with your powerful American Dollar. This will save you so much money in the long term. Importing it could be tricky. Or it might not because USA. I have long said the only reason 90's Japanese stuff took off was because a) Japanese people had Japanese cars so that is what they used b) Australians could import these cars to Australia with very minimal changes and use them on the road here c) Neither country had well-priced access to US or EU Sports Cars. I don't believe the JDM scene would have taken off in Australia at all if we had EU priced EU BMW M offerings, or more especially the AUS V8 Scene would never have existed if we had the multitude of US cars like Camaros, Mustangs, Corvettes at the prices you folks do. After all - Do the math. I would say put a V8 in your R34 and that's the smart way forward. It is. I did it. I know this from my own experience. But at that point there's no reason to simply not buy a C5 or C6? It would be simpler and easier and cheaper and bette-
×
×
  • Create New...