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Signal Line To Actuator, A Ball Ache To Tap Into?

CabbageMS

By CabbageMS,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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CabbageMS Rookie

CabbageMS

Posted
Posted

Looked at fitting manual boost control today but the signal line to the actuators comes right out under the back of the plenum, goes into a hard line and wraps round the back of the head.

My question is, is there an easy point at which to intercept that line before it gets to the actuators, preferably rubber hose? The hose coming out from under the plenum looks just about unreachable with the engine in situ. Maybe if I took the fuel rail off?

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89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

The signal line for the wastegate should come from close to the turbo. If the car has had a Front mount kit fitted, then the fitting for the boost line was probably lost (as it comes out of one of the stock cooler pipes from memory) and one has been run from the intake manifold.

If it is stock turbo then just take the 90 degree elbow off and drill + tap a thread in to accept a screw in nipple. 1/8npt is probably the size. You can buy a tap in this size for less then $20 easily. Just get the nipple first then check the size

From what I can see (sorry its not the best photo for working out what you are pointing at) it looks like one of the hard lines for the carbon canister has been tapped into

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

Sorry I didn't make that particularly clear. It is an r32 gtr. It looks like I could have a go from underneath, just a bit of a shitter for access is all. Where do most people plumb into for ebc/mbc?

Obviously, the one and only place to source the signal for boost control on an R32 GTR is in that line. The best location is therefore the tapping point on the plenum, regardless of access problems. The factory boost control solenoid is on the driver's side suspension tower. Have you followed all the lines? Have you googled for howtos?

89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

Hmmm, manual boost control on a 32 GTR.

Easiest option is to replace the factory solenoid with your bleed valve.

This is what I was thinking but as I don't have much GTR experience I didn't want to suggest it just in case

jiffo Mentor

jiffo

Posted
Posted

26 is the same as most setups.

Boost signal comes from the plenum and straight into a Tee.

One leg of the Tee heads off to the actuators on each turbo.

The other leg of the Tee heads off to the boost solenoid.

Then out of the boost solenoid over to a nipple on the inlet pipework to keep the emissions people happy.

One of the hoses at the boost solenoid will have a yellow band to mark that it's fitted with a restrictor, if the car is still on original boost.

Pop out the restrictor and the car will boost probably as Nissan originally intended.

Biggest difference with the 26 is the length of the steel pipes and hoses.

If one was setting the car up for big hp. you'd have to look more seriously at all that.

CabbageMS Rookie

CabbageMS

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks Jiffo. I'm only aiming for circa 420-440hp, basically just under the injector/maf limit.

I'll give that a try then. I did actually remove the. Boost restrictor from the marked pipe months ago, but it made no difference. I replaced the stock boost solenoid with a section of straight through pipe though and that took boost to about a bar. I'm actually a little confused how putting a straight bit of pipe (6mm bore) in place of the boost solenoid didn't send me into massive boost as surely most of the pressure going to the actuators would have leaked out of there?

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