Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Its same as all the other entry budget coilovers like BC ,HSD etc. will do the job. But if your looking for that level of coilover you might aswell buy BC since its local and easy to get warranty support etc. If you want to go a more serious coilover the next level something like shockworks which are leagues above all those entry spec ones you will buy.

I

Nah I haven't checked

Im after some quality set, I'm willing to stretch my budget from $1000 to $2000 max do you think shockworks would be best for my budget?

In that case yes definately I would highly recomend shockworks they are 1800. I am using them on my r33 drift car and I have had cusco then bc and the shockworks are in a different league they really are that good. The amount of feedback you feel from your suspension as you drive is what really hit me first time driving with them. Being local aswell they are always happy to give advise on setup, make custom changes for your request and rebuilds are really cheap. For the price you pay for them you wont find anything come near it at a similar price. If you are in melbourne you can go to them and they will take you for a drive through the twisties in there r34 test car which is stock with just the coilovers and you will definately be impressed.

Someone told me they're really good as well and coming from someone like yourself that used them I think you just convinced me lol thanks a lot I'll have a look at them. I have a 32 drift car and slowly building it so I can compete in SA next season, if you don't mind me asking what arms setup and knuckle you got in your? I was thinking going Gktech but heard good and bad about and driftworks, powered my MAX are they overpriced or what? What do guys on here run on there R chassis?

powered my MAX are they overpriced or what?

How can something that's only ~$1000 be overpriced? You seriously expect to be able to buy a full set of springs, dampers, upper and lower mounting hardware for much less?

I mean sure, all these cheap coilover kits are nasty, so from that point of view you're buying a polished turd, which by definition means it's overpriced. But expecting to get it for $800, or $750? A single good quality damper costs nearly that much on its own.

No I'm not talking about overpriced coilovers for 1000? Like I said I'm willing to pay up to $2000 for a set. I'm talking about their arms and knuckles by MAX, driftworks and all the big named company are they as good as their prices just wondering if you guys used them?

Someone told me they're really good as well and coming from someone like yourself that used them I think you just convinced me lol thanks a lot I'll have a look at them. I have a 32 drift car and slowly building it so I can compete in SA next season, if you don't mind me asking what arms setup and knuckle you got in your? I was thinking going Gktech but heard good and bad about and driftworks, powered my MAX are they overpriced or what? What do guys on here run on there R chassis?

Yeah mate all the guys that have made the switch to shockworks have not looked back everyone has been impressed. On my setup adj arms I'm using driftworks for camber traction castor arms and knuckles are JDI (place in melb) alot of victorian drift scene guys use them for S/R chassis. Ive had the drifworks arms for 3 years now and still fine no problems, gktech arms from what I have seen tend to be alright it was more the alloy knuckles which had some problems.

Thanks a lot for the tips..!! I'm running jdi knuckles on mine as well great stuff really happy with what they did ton mine. Do you know who's the distributor for driftworks in Australia apart from shop cartel?

I only know of cartel in Aus but I get mine direct from driftworks it works out cheaper then cartel and usually prob quicker since they ship with fedex i have it in a 3or4 days from ordering.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...