Jump to content
SAU Community

Takata Harness


Recommended Posts

first up, already seen the excellent how to guide by jdmconcept on how to spot fake, however that was posted quite a few years back and the fake ones have copied some of the tell tale signs already like the no. of cross stitches

anyways, i have seen some on sau sell recently as genuine which also appears to be fake perhaps unbeknown to the seller, in any case, there are still couple of signs that are yet to be copied

* carbon on the top centre bit of locking mechanism is dry carbon, not gloss stickered carbon, whole mechanism should be quite heavy

* rear of the locking mechanism does not have a centre hole nor uses normal screws, use torx screws (i have seen some without the centre hole but still using normal screws)

* accrediation tag ribbon underneath is white (ie. painted green on top), whereas genuine ribbon is green on both sides

* main large "Takata" sign does not have corporation on it and should be double stitched on both left / right sides

* if you lucky to get the black box, it should have a sticker dot on which series is inside, not printed dot, also barcode sticker on the left of this info

anyway, on to the pics, found of genuine ones while researching this for the last hour

post-40640-0-91030000-1411988630_thumb.jpg

post-40640-0-13588100-1411988636_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Found a car that has kiki desing wheels on it with diffrent plates that match a 2008 model when clearly it's not white  
    • Howdy friends, So this evening I had a need to remove the rear compressor turbo pipe (long story, but I'm replacing it due to a bolt snapping off in the pipe and managing to then snap an extraction bit in the broken bolt, fun times -_-). The rear bolt is a bit of a bastard and very little room to get good leverage. I was able to get a 12 mm socket onto the bolt head, but none of my ratchets were able to fit, so I put together a "stubby" socket wrench to get it out and it worked surprisingly well 🙂. In the past I've "made" tools by cutting down spanners and bending them with a torch etc, but this 3D printed wrench was way less effort. I'll be keeping this one in my "special tool draw" from now on for sure ^_^b https://www.printables.com/model/868973-half-inch-stubby-socket-wrench
    • It looks even better in Person 
    • It's good, but not as good as some people make it out to be on social media. Yes, you can feel the torque come in earlier, yes, it does make the car feel more lively below 4000rpm, and yes, it does feel more responsive, but it's not this 'unicorn' mod.  Everyday driving? Below 100km/h on Australian roads, it's worth it. At 110km in 6th gear mine will sit on about 2860rpm. Doing a Motorkhana or a small circuit? Yes, it's worth it. Doing Texas style speed runs? Prob not. Do you use the gears more? Yes and No. Doing 60/70km on most roads, I'm using the gears just like any other Getrag. 80km and above, you use 5th and 6th more often. Absolutely no issues driving with the 33 A-LSD. Didn't change the front diff, only changed the C&P wheel. Some people say to upgrade to a Quaife etc, but i've had no issue with torque steer or having it wander all over the road. The one thing that no-one really addresses is the issue of the Speedo being out. It's either use a speedo corrector, find a 33 gearbox speed sensor, or use an aftermarket display with GPS speedo.
    • Anyone know or have the timing specs for these cams?   i have messaged JUN for two months with zero response    they are 288in/288ex 11.6 lift
×
×
  • Create New...