Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Having a Flex Fuel Sensor installed and tuned in with my RB30 /26 build just i case I want/need to use E85.

After reading a few old threads and different opinions about the E85 fuel and some problems if the fuel is getting old/stale

I was wondering if there are still problems with the E85 now or have they stabilized the fuel , maybe it is better now as they sell more of it and it and does not have time to go off?

Maybe mix it in with some Russian Vodka and all good :/

That extra money would have been better spent towards a variable inlet cam for response, seeing as that's your goal.

There's tonnes of info on here about e85. Using it as a daily is no concern. Ask your tuner why they suggested it? A smaller turbo with e85 would create the same peak power and more response, which was your goal in the first place. Just going to e85 will make more power. No better response

Thanks Ben

I feel pretty well set up with the 260 10.8 cams and the PT6262 turbo for street response with the 3.2 build, plus o/s valves and cleaning up the head.

I do not really think I will be using E85 as they do not sell it where I live but who knows, when I get down to the Big Smoke and be able to fill up with E85 and compare the difference, that could be fun:)

I am sure there are many ways to get better results for my $ but enough, done a shit load of hours checking stuff out, asked questions , some dumb like the one I am asking now I suppose .

I always remember what an old mate of mine said, there are NO dumb questions, only Dumb answers and I have done both :)

I thought that E85 did make better response and power from the moment you pushed the go peddle?????

you obviously have the normal issues, location of E85, as a DD you need to plan your route keeping in mind the locations of the fuel. also km range. i get about 400km to a tank on 98, and about 300km to a tank on E85 around town. so also the fuel range is less aswell. yes its cheaper but compared to 98 it works out the same price in the end. you just obviously get benifits from it, healthier for your motor so to speak, more power with a tad more reliability. alot of my mates dont want to change to E85 as there isnt alot of servos around that sell it. but if you plan your trips its nothing to worry about.... + it smells better than 98 ;)

I thought that E85 did make better response and power from the moment you pushed the go peddle?????

you obviously dont just put E85 in and expect it to have more power. obviously if you have a flex tune then yes your tuner will be able to use less boost and acheive the same power as 98.

for example i make 315kw @ 14psi on E85

where as i make 320kw @ 17psi on 98

so you can see there is a very big diffrence in what E85 can do for tuning :)

im all for it

Thanks Ben

I feel pretty well set up with the 260 10.8 cams and the PT6262 turbo for street response with the 3.2 build, plus o/s valves and cleaning up the head.

I do not really think I will be using E85 as they do not sell it where I live but who knows, when I get down to the Big Smoke and be able to fill up with E85 and compare the difference, that could be fun:)

I am sure there are many ways to get better results for my $ but enough, done a shit load of hours checking stuff out, asked questions , some dumb like the one I am asking now I suppose .

I always remember what an old mate of mine said, there are NO dumb questions, only Dumb answers and I have done both :)

I thought that E85 did make better response and power from the moment you pushed the go peddle?????

PT6262 + 260 10.8 cams + 3.2L bottom end + e85 you will see some good power levels, with a good tune i recon you will see full boost by easy 5k and i recon you will make easy 400kw on about 20-22psi

is your turbo twin scroll?

why dont you run eflex, you can run 98 when ever you want and if you feel like putting in E85 you just do it :)

off topic sorry but.....who built your bottom end? fully forged? can you pm me some details or if your happy to share on here thats cool :)

Have those uni group cams been proven? Piggaz recently posted he saw a result where there wasn't enough valve spring pressure to keep everything happy, or maybe I'm confused....

I'm hanging to see your results. Will be an absolute monster and make a few jealous! Obviously something you will enjoy driving!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
×
×
  • Create New...