Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, I finally managed to get my engine running. Took me ages to get the timing marks spot on but I freaking did it.

The block is N/A, got a turbo head and am running turbo injectors, The intake cam is from an N/A (are they the same?) and running a series 1 TPS and using a turbo ECU. Oh, also using an N/A zorst manifold because I dont have a dump pipe yet for my turbo and the N/A mani has an o2 sensor on it.

I have a turbo gear to go on it but still waiting for some parts to arrive.

My question is, because its an odd setup, what would be the best timing for it? I dont have a timing gun to check what the timing is like, but to me it sounds like its breaking down when I rev it.

Spot the fire hazards...

Id say what ever a 25det timing is, and the break down id attribute to coils possibly

Good point. When I was checking for spark I did notice the coils with no spark plug plugged arcing out onto the coil bracket. Ive always wanted to do an external coil pack conversion might give me an excuse to do it. I just assumed the arcing was due to no spark plug in them and the spark had to go somewhere.

What......

How can you be doing stuff like this and have no timimg gun?

Who cares what timing we tell you to run, how will you run it?

Ill buy one tomorrow

Engine is nowhere near ready to get accurate with tuning.

For the moment set the CAS so she will start easily, sounded a bit too far advanced in the video.

She starts first go and idles without any issues. When I get the gun ill get the timing spot on :) (I hope)

Unplug TPS, unplug IACV.. then make sure your idle is screwed in at 650rpm (as per recommendation for a RB25DET).. then set timing at 15 degrees BTDC.

Car will run ok.. but wouldn't be nice to run.. you could blanket an additional 2 degrees on top to make your base timing 17 degrees.

It's a NA so should be fine (of course check for audible knock).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha I do that.. thats when it chirps..The bit point for me is almost non-existent. Otherwise I stall it. But yes, in terms of performance, the clutch is solid af.
    • Greg speaks wisdom. These dirty old Datsuns are only value when they are cheap. When they are not cheap, there is no value. Sounds contradictory, but it's true. We are now 20 years past the hey day of modifying cheap 90s JDM cars for small amounts of money. This is a different world. If you are rich and can afford not to care about what is effectively wasting money on an old Datto shitter, then I have no reason to argue against it. But if you are wanting to experience what we all experienced back in 2005 (and I bought my car last century!) then there is no way to do it.
    • Short answer: No. Medium answer: No, because you still need to conjure the things out of thin air to bolt them to a NA to make it a NA+T. Long Answer: No - The things you need to conjure - meaning a turbo, intercooling, manifolds, exhaust, intake/manifold/piping, clutch, injectors, fuel pump, AFM (?), ECU + Wiring (woo, N/A loom fun) have to come from somewhere. You could have many scavenged these things from an OEM car that someone had upgraded from and use some of these. This will be cost prohibitive now, especially so in the USA. You'd probably pay the same for newer, upgraded components that are better than old OEM stuff from 25-30 years ago. None of these big ticket items are re-usable for the N/A car. Why not buy new and upgrade while you're there? The only real consideration is turbo and fuel sizing and determining whether you want to stay within the bounds of the OEM engine or get into rebuild territory. These limits ARE lower with a N/A motor and especially N/A gearbox at the starting point. And if you're gonna upgrade those then you may as well consider having them built to begin with. Because everyone here knows you're never far from that next engine rebuild once you start making the power you want... The cars you see on the internet and SAU etc have been built over decades. If you're really clued in... you would sell your US car to somebody for what you paid for it. You would then scour AU JDM pages or SAU and buy a car like Dose's on this forum with your powerful American Dollar. This will save you so much money in the long term. Importing it could be tricky. Or it might not because USA. I have long said the only reason 90's Japanese stuff took off was because a) Japanese people had Japanese cars so that is what they used b) Australians could import these cars to Australia with very minimal changes and use them on the road here c) Neither country had well-priced access to US or EU Sports Cars. I don't believe the JDM scene would have taken off in Australia at all if we had EU priced EU BMW M offerings, or more especially the AUS V8 Scene would never have existed if we had the multitude of US cars like Camaros, Mustangs, Corvettes at the prices you folks do. After all - Do the math. I would say put a V8 in your R34 and that's the smart way forward. It is. I did it. I know this from my own experience. But at that point there's no reason to simply not buy a C5 or C6? It would be simpler and easier and cheaper and bette-
    • Reading all this... hurts lol. I have an ENR34 5MT and I paid an inflated USA price for the car alone, had to do tons of preventative maintenance past that, and so I'm over $30K USD into the car already and haven't even touched power.  I wanted to +t it. Not even trying to make GTR numbers, I'd be happy with 250hp.  Can I get away with paying much less to make that happen?
    • Damn you’ve done well, definitely snapping necks.
×
×
  • Create New...