Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As a first time build, will be using RB25pistons in RB30 block, decking block to get 9.5ish to 1 with non neo head , goal is using GT3076 to get 320-350kw..

What I need to decide is what exactly needs done to the block? should NEW RB25 pistons be enough so I have a tight quiet engine and no slap..

This isn't insane power so what should I ask an engine machine shop to do with this block ( assume it is worn out) and if the tune is good can I use OEM pistons etc..??

I don't want to know about "just get a wrecker RB30 and slap a neo head on" cause I want this done tight and done once for street performance not a drifting slapper.

Edited by AngryRB
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/450575-help-needed-with-rb30-block-prep/
Share on other sites

I have been tracking my daily driver for three years and it just had rings, bearings and new conrod bolts. Rips will tell you that' s good for 500hp. If you want more and start reboring then you may as well go the whole hog with forged pistons, new harmonic balancer, full balancing etc. Stock rods are solid as...just need better bolts.

Is it as simple as taking the stock bolts out and putting the new arp studs-nuts in? Do you have to take bearings out etc or can everything be left in place and just the rod bolts changed?

So at this power level, using E85 and safe tune etc.. are all the stock clearances like piston clearance, ring gaps, big end bearings etc still to be followed or do these become too tight and risk the motor seizing up? for example would a 1 -1.5 thou piston clearance on an new OEM piston be safe? (manual says 0.8 - 2thou is acceptable NA)

Edited by AngryRB

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No. GKTech arms have spherical bearings in them. No bushes. You will not need bushes for those arms. The sphericals are a bit of a maintenance nightmare. I have replaced all of mine several times in the 5 or so years I've had them, and I have the arms out regularly to clean and lube the balls. Worth the pain on an R32, because the standard arm design is trash. If you need the camber adjustment, there are other options (than the GKTech ones), although I would still lean towards and prefer the GKTech ones, even with the maintenance load of the sphericals. The caster adjustment is also highly valuable, allowing for setting the car up to drive straight. There are a million options for these, including the GKTech ones. I've had Tein rods on mine for 20 years and the balls are much less trouble in that location. Never given me a moment's pain. All positives, no negatives. I consider them compulsory.
    • Lol yeah I ordered the clips mentioned and as far as the amayama diagrams go i think thats all I'll need. Fogured id ask, sometimes people's first hand experience doesnt always match up to diagrams haha, i guess I'll wing it and worse comes to worse I'll just deal with it as I go
    • Thanks for all that information I appreciate it. To answer your questions: - Yep that's what I mean. These guys are professional painters to so I must be missing something. It's a bit hard to explain. - With the primer landing on clearcoat, I make sure that the surrounding clearcoat is scuffed to 240 grit as my epoxy primer says that I only need to sand the area to 240 grit. - Yeah so similar to the first question, assuming that the paint landed on the unscuffed clearcoat because I've seen that happen. - Yep I want to prep the surface in that order. Only reason because epoxy primer will protect it from rust and I need that atm with this crappy Sydney weather. I think I was worried about time, if I try to put the filler down but screw it up somehow and I don't have time to sand it off and reapply it then need to put primer later that it might start to rust again so I wanted to apply the primer as quick as possible to not deal with rust.  - I just deleted some answers, I just realised after watching a video and what you said about looking at the data sheet, that I need to read the data sheet on the specific filler I'm using. It's possible now that I put epoxy primer first was a waste of time and need to go to bare metal lol
    • I did. I went to a suspension guy and he told me because I don't have adjustable camber arms it's the reason why my car veers towards the left if I take my hands off the wheel but if I drive my other every day car and take my hands off the steering wheel it goes completely straight. I think it's common with Skyline's. In order to fix the problem, I likely need gktech camber arms then nismo bushes since I have poly bushes atm, then a wheel alignment after that. With my car if I take my hands off the steering wheel on a really bumpy road before stopping at a light I have to hold my steering wheel somewhat tight otherwise my car will legit just go completely in the other direction quite quickly and I'll slam into something lol instead of stopping straight. I Believe this YouTuber had the same issue and fixed it with gktech arms. At timestmap 6:05 he talks about how the car doesn't veer anymore after installing these arms.  
    • hello! does anyone have a schematic that shows how to test the blower motor resistor for the vac system? i believe the part# is 27761-15U00. I think the resistor is toast, but would like to be able to test it somehow before i embark on the journey to find a new one. cheers! 27761-15U00
×
×
  • Create New...