Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi SAU,

Selling both items listed below as they both no longer suit my new turbo and intake setup which i have recently upgraded too.

The dump pipe has been used for 12 months and the intake pipe is brand new. Both quality parts that fit up perfectly. The dump pipe clears the gearbox, AC lines and sits very snug to the chassis which provides clearance if your vehicle has been lowered. One of the best fitting dump pipes i have come across bolts straight up and does not leak.

  • AM Performance Turbo Dump Pipe/Front Pipe
  • AM Performance 3" Intake Pipe

- Direct fit for R32 and R33 Nissan Skylines with factory rear turbo housing bolt pattern.

- Australian made 304 grade stainless steel.

Location: Melbourne
Contact: 0401 025 251

Piping size - 3 inch

Price -
Intake: $200
Dump pipe: $250

post-66083-0-30572100-1416310556_thumb.jpg

post-66083-0-96251100-1416310604_thumb.jpg

post-66083-0-37723300-1416310614_thumb.jpg

post-66083-0-51870900-1416310622_thumb.jpg

post-66083-0-05874800-1416310627_thumb.jpg

Intake pipe 3inch too? And how low would u go?

The Intake and the split dump pipe are both 3" in size. Slightly negotiable on price however keep in mind the Intake is brand new and comes with Aeroflow Silicone Hoses ($15-$25 each) as pictured. PM or contact me if your interested.

Edited by DarkRyda

Bump, too many time wasters :/ please don't contact me If you don't have the funds etc...

These parts will also fit: S2 RWD Stagea

Edited by DarkRyda

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...