Jump to content
SAU Community

reason for getting a vspec gtr?

noise
 Share

Recommended Posts

Serious-Seven Rising Star

Serious-Seven

Posted
Posted
Thanks leewah, i also remove the front propeller shaft. From Gojira's post he implies that a non vspec can be "switched" to 2wd. Removing the front shaft would be the same excercise whether vspec or not.

Hey Ben ,

you can make non-vspec R33 GT-R's rear wheel drive by removing the 3rd row 2 down fuse down from the rear fuse box in the boot.

I have done this myself... and also about all R33 GT-R's with Brembo brake calipers ( R33 GT-R ) i have seen one white R33 GT-R with brakes that just say Nissan on them.

hope this helps.

thanks

Ben i hope this gives you an idea :cheers:http://www.zele-international.com/bcnr33/33_090.html

noise Mentor

noise

Posted
  • Author
Posted
IF i had $40,000aud id get a 10 second R32 GT-R from japan.

whats the point? someone with more money will have a faster car... if you buy a newer car you get a car thats looks newer and feels newer and handles newer and smells newer and has all those new features.

thruth is i would rather a more stock newer gtr that i can throw a few simple mods at ... like boost controler ..fmic... exhuast.. mags etc

pentae Mentor

pentae

Posted
Posted
I suggest if you want to find the best BCNR33 you can... look here

http://www.zele-international.com/search_33.html

*HINT: click on the yellow boxes*

Personally I would get a non-V-Spec I think stock it is a better road car for Australia with the extra ground clearance.

They are immaculate. How do you buy these if you cant speak japanese? :(

Kutter Enthusiast

Kutter

Posted
Posted
The main difference between a v-spec and a non v-spec is the ATTESA systems used. The v-spec uses an ATTESA pro system which has a higher rate (about 10 times as fast) of checking the wheels for slippage and thus transferring power to the front. It also has a active differential for left to right power transfer. From most articles I have come across (and from driving the two myself), not many people can actually tell the difference in driving the two. The v-spec was (is) considered the top of the range, however the the physical driving differences are minimal.

I thought the term "ATTESA Pro" was given to the R33 GTRs 4wd system which was the improvement from the R32 ATTESA system?

and correct me if I'm wrong I think the R33 VSPECS came with an Active-LSD system....

LTSJayce Veteran

LTSJayce

Posted
Posted
Vspec has a small lip under the rear wing, and also has BREMBO calipers not nissan other than that.......^^^what they said^^^

As EVLR33 said earlier,you're spot on 'bout the extra rear "lip" & brakes...except you're thinking of the R32 GTR,not the R33... Don't wanna be a nerd,but us R32 owners can get touchy 'bout the whole V Spec thang(got a V Spec II,myself...)

Serious-Seven Rising Star

Serious-Seven

Posted
Posted
As EVLR33 said earlier,you're spot on 'bout the extra rear "lip" & brakes...except you're thinking of the R32 GTR,not the R33... Don't wanna be a nerd,but us R32 owners can get touchy 'bout the whole V Spec thang(got a V Spec II,myself...)

yes there is a big differnce in the R32 from the Vspec and standard.

but from the vspec r33 to standard r33........ there isnt much that you can feel.

R32 Vspec and standard r33 gt-r have the same ATESSA

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By MBS206 · Posted

      If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
×
×
  • Create New...