Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have slipped a thermocouple near the plenum and have been taking some readings. i have only had it in for 2 days. i thought it would be interesting to get some numbers before making any changes but i would like to know what is a reasonable temp range (allowing that ambient conditions can vary).

driving to work it has never gone above 20 degrees (usually around 15 deg) except sitting at the lights, 30 degrees on sunday with spirited consistent driving and 48 deg spike on booting it up a hill from a near standstill, as the airflow increased the temp eased back.

at rest you can see temp rising as it soaks engine heat.

is it a front mount cooler? i saw this fellas car at a shop the other day and they had a thermo gun on the cooler pipes and it was actually hotter going into the motor than it was coming out of the turbo due to the way he was running his cooler piping.

Be careful, those guns perhaps tell you the surface temperature of the piping, not the temp of the airflow inside the piping.

sunday was around 18-20 degrees, i had the back seat out of the car installing sound deadening and it was a pretty warm for this time of year.

mornings obviously cooler so i imagine around 10 degrees ambient.

i want to move the thermocouple into the airbox and get some readings from in there later.

it was reading 30degrees on steady/spirited driving on sunday which was approximately 10 degrees above (est.)ambient. at the lights the temp would run significantly higher as the pipework heats up and when you start moving again temps decrease (as expected). the highest single temp it reached was 48 degrees when i got a slight cramp in my right foot up a hill.

how high is too high??

What is a reasonable estimate of intercooler effeciency , 80-85%?

So of you are seeing more then say a 20% diference in temp then perhaps time for a better intercooler, dropping boost or perhaps require better shrouding around the intercooler. So on a 30 degree day shoudl be able to keep within 6-10 deg of ambient prvioded you arent cooking air with your turbo.... on paper it sounds right, dotn know about in practice

I would be very interested to see how the new motor affects the air temp compared to amb temp at the same boost levels.

The new motor obviously breathes much easier due to ~5mm x 2 larger inlet valves, slightly bigger ports etc.

Where can I get the required gear to take the readings I need, and what do I need? Jaycar?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That looks good, but I think you're going to need much beefier side skirts now.
    • They are daft and there's a reason it never caught on. Steering feel? We don't need no stinking steering feel!
    • I gotta pull you up on this. It's driving me crazy. A shutter is something that closes, like over a window or in a cmera. The word you want is shudder. That LSD is clearly f**ked. Take it to a diff shop and get it disassembled and examined by an expert. YOu might have plates welded together or something equally crazy.
    • Define "starting to fail". Wy not just rebuild them?
    • Check the Nistune doco. There are a few assumptions being made here that might not be valid. I will list the things that occur to me: Base map. Base map for what? Base map for Z32? Then the cranking pulse width is probably wrong for an RB25. The extra 500cc of capacity might well be enough to prevent it from catching. Base map for RB25? I don't think you can load one of those into a Z32. You have to just make the settings correct for an RB25 in the Z32 base map. That is either K or the TIM to get the pulsewidth right. Loom. You bought a loom for an RB. And you plugged it into a Z32 ECU. Did you make sure that any iwre differences were swapped. From memory, there's at least a couple. And as per the others, I would suggest making sure that the fuel pressure is correct while cranking and that the injectors are actually flowing as expected. They really must come out and go on the bench, unless you do find that you have messed up as per above points. I would also suggest watching in Nistune to make sure that everything is reading correctly. That the correct binary flags are raised at the right time (like the crank signal), that there's no stupid values in K or TIM. That you have not got mismatched firmware for the ECU and/or a wrong image loaded.
×
×
  • Create New...