Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 months later...

Well I finally bought my exhaust. I got a fully mandrel bent 3" system with high flow cat and adjustable silencer. I bought it from ebay.

I can't believe the difference it made!!!!! It has got so much more nuts. After I drove the car my hands were shaking. And the note it produced, so sweet. Not too loud but just enough to sound like a tough skyline. Now everytime I do a quick shift into 2nd gear I spin the tyres up to redline for about 2 seconds then it drops back to 5 000 and quickly get up to redline again. I just can't believe the increase!!! Then comes third -> the acceleration has gone through the roof!!

Time to take it down the strip again for another run. This time I have to be in the 13s... Will post a slip!

I took my friend for a run I don't know if he was jealous of just could not feel the difference but he was not impressed. Maybe because he has an old v8 bomb and the only thing that feels fast on that is the car is the sound and the shaking at 100ks an hour. There is one thing I really notice with the skyline, is that you don't get the speed sensation. E.g my friends silvia(sr20 turbo) has most of the basic mods done to it. It feels really fast. Myself and my friend were totally convinced the silvia would flog my skyline!!! But when we had a drag I shocked myself and my friends the skyline could not be beaten that easily.

  • 2 weeks later...
where's the slip?? ;)

I'm going to willowbank on the 23rd of october 2004. I will post a slip shortly after this date..

I have had a few drags now since I got the exhaust here are the results

1) equal with VT clubsport V8 5.7 litre with cop chip -> ex pursuit car.

2) eat wrx (non sti) now!!! Had a drag from 60 to 140 by the time I got to 140 I was 4 cars infront. It had an exhaust thats all I know. Before I was equal until 140 then I started beating them.

3) twin turbo soarer 91 model with cat back exahust Im slightly quicker..

thats all for now.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Well the drags have come and gone and I finally know how much extra power the full exhaust system made on my R33..

Run 1:

MODS: k&N panel filter, heavy duty clutch, and full 3 inch exhaust with high flow cat.

Temperature: 34 Deg

60ft: 2.299

E.T. 14.717

M.P.H 95.81

K.P.H 154.19

OK this is not what I expected... I expected atleast! 0.5 secs off my time. But I do have excuses...

1) temperature was 34 degrees compared to my last run of 20 degrees

2) It seemed that 5.5G + in 3rd gear was not pulling as hard as it used too so I changed at 6Gs...

3) My car was not idling properly all day long until it cooled down at night.. Gee that pissed my off..

4) track was no where near as sticky

5) I got kicked off for not wearing a long sleave shirt :P

Run 2:

Temperature: 30 Deg

60ft: 2.479

E.T. 14.829

M.P.H 97.11

K.P.H 156.28

Well, a little better in the MPH department but everthing else sucked!!! I tried taking off with 3Gs as last time I had too much wheel spin, but I got bogged down which is why my 60ft is so crap..

I let 3rd rev out to 6.5G this time, which I guess why my MPH is higher.

Run 3

MODS: k&N panel filter, heavy duty clutch, full 3 inch exhaust with high flow cat, and my 9 PSI trick.

Temperature: 28 Deg

60ft: 2.135

E.T. 14.056

M.P.H 99.40

K.P.H 159.98

I was not too happy at this time. My times were crap and my goal of getting below 14 was not looking good. So I cheated and used my 9PSI trick. I just had to get under 14 secs today... Putting research aside for now..

When the lights went green I took off with 3.5G spinning most of 1st gear with a big spin in 2nd... Stupid tyres I got from the importer!!! Gee it felt so much quicker down the track though.. 3rd Gear to 4th change was also made at 6.5Gs.. I really should have taken it to the limit!!! Next month!!!

There is one thing I did learn and that is when using more boost than standard the exhaust plays a big part.. Last best time was 14.56 and now it is 14.05. That over .5 of a second better... This set up still has more potential I just sucked at driving it...

time slips

http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/rafsland/DSC01515.JPG

Next month if jaycar get these kits to the shelves

jaycar kits:

air / fuel controller

digital boost controller

and a home made knock detector - used for tunning... Stay tuned!!! :rofl:

  • 4 weeks later...

Went to the track again tonight to try an break my record with the same mods.

Wedenesday at willowbank is kick ass, I got 6 runs in 1.5 hours :D unlike saturday night - 3 runs in the whole night..

Here are my results

Best ETA: 14.051

Best M.P.H 100.96 = K.P.H 162.49

best 60ft 2.217

I tried so hard to get into the 13s but just did not make it. My launch was letting me down. I tried launching at 3Gs I get bogged, launch at 3.5 I spin all of first and second gear :cheers: .. Launch at ~3.2 I found to be the best, bit of hop then off I go. My best launch ever was with the stock exhaust and 9 psi so I blame my tyres for the crap launch. So once I get new tyres easy 13s :) ... Oh yeah and I let my PSI down a little to 28. I found I had a better launch but top end was down. But for now I have a safc comming in the next 2 weeks so that too should get me in the 13s.

I also draged a couple of skylines down the track with similar mods and my car was either equal or slowing pulling away so at least I know once I get going my car is doing well... Gotta get that launch right..

Bah drop your tyre pressure to around 15psi, it works for many others. You'd be looking at like a 13.6sec or so if you could get flat 2's for your 60ft. I was getting consistent 2.0-2.1's on $230ea 225/50/16 Michelins and still my best is only a 14.1 grr :D

i dropped mine to aournd 18psi, and there didn't seem to be a problem, i was runnig 14.4 though, i think being lower profile tyres u gotta let them down more, see if u can source some 15ich rims and them the pressure drop in the tyres will have a better effect

Dropping the tyre pressure certainly increases your rolling resistance. However with drag racing its all in the launch. The flatter the tyre, the more grip you'll get when dumping the clutch.

As rev pointed out, pineapples also help...

  • 3 months later...
  • 1 year later...

Over a year later I managed to get back down the willowbank. Time to try and crack into the 12 sec. This time I have fottage of me going down the track. I'll post it when I edit the film. So my mods so far for this run.

hybrid intercooler kit

SAFC

CAI

Bosch 040

Brand new el cheapo rear tyres $121 sav.

12 psi

short shifter

full exhaust with split dump(My design).

rear type psi: 30

Results: best time was 13.48 with 172 km/h :( 60ft was 2.1

Still .48 off getting into the 12s.. Maybe a lightened flywheel will get me in or some decent tyres.

My mate went down on his R6 first time going down the trac he got a 12.02 at 202 km/h

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And if you want more power, more reliably, and cheaper, go get the Aussie RB... The 4L Barra and put that in instead.
    • No cats will keep discolouring the rear bar. Sends white paint a weird yellow stain. Cut and polish normally gets it out, but you'll be doing that every fortnight I found.
    • Both heads will be equally reliable or unreliable depending on what you do to them.  Stock the RB26 head will flow more. You have access to the stock intake ITB manifold on the RB26 cheaply which flows really well(1000hp+).   Arguably more aftermarket support for RB26, though in Aus we love our RB30 SOHC heads too.    The only downsides to the RB26 head is if you have a VL commodore and want to keep the SOHC look.  Where you may have an issue is drilling out the rb30 block for the bigger head studs but if you are building a big power motor you'd probably put bigger studs on the SOHC head too.  This is just about finding a good machine shop, sometimes easier said than done.  RB30 head worked can make big power just like a Rb26 head, so really it actually more comes down to what your preference is for your car.  People now even making billet versions of both.
    • 2630s work perfectly well. There is something to be said for just using the 30 head, as it saves all the pain of the conversion, still makes tons of power, still sounds cool, etc etc. 2630 will obviously make more power again, but the differences are not stupidly big. It really depends on whether you're racing for sheep stations or not. If it's dead serious, then it's a 26 head. If it's just for fun, it could go either way. But the 26 head and the effort to get it set up, etc etc, is part of the fun.
    • I've been building a 26/30 for a few years now. I've had the head built with all the good stuff. I had a 32 gtr but blew it up and yes its all going into a vl but im looking for some advice from some RB nuts on pros and cons on putting a 26 head on a 30 bottom end is it worth it Works are as follows Head -Extensive porting 1mm oversized supertech valves Supertech double springs Supertech valve guides Supertech titanium retainers Tomei solid lifters Tomei 270 x 10.25 cams Head drain Bottom end series 2 rb30 block Cp ceramic coated pistons Eagle rods Romac balancer Oil restrictions  O ringed blah blah spent a fortune And will get a girdle because the 30s arent used to handling that much rpm Nitto billet oil pump Hypertune plenum 6boost mani Refurbed astra pump thats the cover for it in the boot I did have a precision 6262 but sold it because drag car life. Currently building the ass end full 4 link floater rear end with a 2 speed  But the dilemma i have is my mate rekens I should just stick with the 30 head for reliability. Has any one had any issues with mounting the 26 head ie compression blowing gaskets etc. Just looking for some advice from people who have gone down this route. Here's some photos. Blew the oil pump in the gtr and decided to rip the motor out at the time and do a full build only to find it had been a repairable write off so went down this path.     
×
×
  • Create New...