Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb25Det Turbine On Rb20Det (R32 Gts-T) With Smic?

Matvei27

By Matvei27,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

There's not much conflicting there. The highflow turbo is going to be able to make 225rwkW. The GTR injectors will flow it. He didn't mention what AFM he was using but it is unlikely that it was an RB20 one. ** The only sticking point is the R34 SMIC which I would have thought would be getting bloody hot at that power level.

** It is important to remember that RB20 and RB25 turbo AFMs are supposed to be the same. RB25s are known to be able to get up towards 220rwkW on those AFMs, so it would seem that RB20s should be able to as well. But I was running up against the 5V limit on mine at <180rwkW. It is very important to realise that some people tend to "tune" above the max voltage of their AFM, which can be a bit risky. Not suggesting that SK did, just that you need to know everything about a setup before taking any lessons from it.

Have a look at the Hypergear thread for information on what RB20, RB25 and Neo turbo highflows are capable of. If you want a laggy setup that doesn't make enough power to justify itself, then a 25highflow on a 20 would be a reasonable choice. Some people like the sudden boost rush at 4500rpm. I don't.

Matvei27 Community Regular

Matvei27

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

If I am understanding you correctly you are basically saying that:

1. RB25 hi-flow is not worth it

2. RB25 standard is not safe b/c ceramic

i.e. you are telling me to hi-flow my stock RB20 snail.

But for the price to do that ($1500?) should I just buy a HKS 2530 and run it at lower boost levels?

Edited by Matvei27
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

RB25 stock, run at 12 psi will be fine. Some risk of it dying, but fine. Don't push it harder than that because now you're spending money on everything else for a turbo that you can't push very hard.

RB25 highflow can and will make a lot of power on an RB20 but will be quite laggy. Given you said you don't want lag......

Check the Hypergear thread. Highflow <$AU1000. Check the exchange rate. Sleaze these and other Aussie forums for a blown RB20 turbo that you can buy and get sent to HG. Freight finished product back to US. Spend <$US1500 on a superior product.

Matvei27 Community Regular

Matvei27

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

I can get a HKS 2530 kit brand new for $1800 USD though.

Doesn't that make $1500 for a RB20 hi-flow kind of a waste?

Can I run the 2530 at a low enough boost level?

And what boost level are you suggesting I run a RB20 hi-flow at?

Edited by Matvei27
Matvei27 Community Regular

Matvei27

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

20psi definitely wouldn't work with my SMIC as Rekin said he had heatsoak on his ARC unit at 15psi with a 2530.

I don't care about the price as much as I care about getting the best option within the limits of my setup.

What kind of boost do people run the RB20 hi-flow at?

That being said, you could also get a RB25 turbo with a set of Tomei poncams and gears for a similar price to a RB20 hi flow.

Couldn't you run the RB25 at 12psi and use the tomei kit to fix the low end so it has the same responsiveness as the stock RB20 unit?

Edited by Matvei27
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

Adding cams NEVER makes the bottom end better.

Put gears on it if you like. Go for your life. At least they're cheapish, so the very marginal benefit you get from them won't be too much wasted money.

What I have said above is very simple. IF you are going to buy a decent turbo capable of running 20 psi and making bulk power, then you proceed to run it at low boost, you have just wasted all that money.

If you are going to stay at low boost to keep your SMIC and foglight and aero bumper (and no comment from me on the driving enjoyment to be gained from having those things compared to having more power) then just buy an R33 turbo and be done with it. Upgrade nothing else.

Matvei27 Community Regular

Matvei27

Posted
  • Author
Posted

OK then I am going to order a RB25 turbo and will consider adjustable gears only if the lag bothers me enough to warrant the money.

I have a new fuel pump but would you recommend changing the injectors or not necessary?

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted (edited)

The injectors and the AFM kind of run to about the same max point, so change one means change the other. EIther or both of those means change engine management too. You really should do the ECU anyway, because you will make a lot better power with a tune instead of allowing the stock ECU to run rich and smokey at 12+ psi of bigger turbo.

Edited by GTSBoy
Matvei27 Community Regular

Matvei27

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

I have a RB20 power FC already, which was hard to get.

I'm thinking if I change the injectors and AFM and upgrade to the ARC side mount instead of the R34 GTT side mount (105mm core vs 80mm core) I should be okay for 12~14psi on the RB25 stock turbo.

Sound right?

Edited by Matvei27
Matvei27 Community Regular

Matvei27

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Or...just put a front mount on it

buy a 2530 and crank 20 odd psi down its throat

That's not the point of this thread.

Obviously that's one solution.

At this point all I want to know is how to get the most out of the RB25 turbo with a side mount.

My car is barely legal as it is, the last thing I need is a FMIC telling everyone to pull me over.

Edited by Matvei27
Matvei27 Community Regular

Matvei27

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

SydneyKid has basically told me that changing my ceramic turbo for another ceramic turbo is a waste of time/money,

so I'm now between getting a RB20 hi-flowed or buying a 2530.

Opinions? Price is around the same. Which is the better choice for my setup?

1bar or so seems low for the 2530, but might be perfectly fine on the hi-flow RB20?

Rekin said he never tried the RB20 hi-flow that he had and just went straight to the 2530 (which heat soaked at 15psi),

so my inclination is to just try the RB20 hi-flow and see how it goes.

Edited by Matvei27

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...