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Rb26 Cam Gears


G37Sam
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Cams failed in. Lol.

I know you meant dialed, but in the spirit of the current discussion that's kinda funny.

The thing is we won't find a neo performing well on a stock turbo, what turbo would you accept for comparison purposes?

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should get a point up high again where the line switches back over to make more power with vct off again, about 7000rpm on a stock rb25 for what its worth. basically need it off to clean up the idle, as soon as its off idle turn in on, then off again just before redline. next time ive got my car on the dyno ill do the two runs, and overlay them to show.

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Cams failed in. Lol.

I know you meant dialed, but in the spirit of the current discussion that's kinda funny.

The thing is we won't find a neo performing well on a stock turbo, what turbo would you accept for comparison purposes?

Hahaha, stupid iFail autofarkyouover :), I spend 10mins writing a post then another 10mins fixing the auto corrects :(

But yeah that's kinda funny :D

I'm happy for any turbo you like, I would just like to see response v power for same boost level on 98, which is what that car uses, with a ET and MPH for proof cause I have seen doctored dyno runs before

I'm sure there is better graphs from 26s, that's just mine so I don't feel bad posting as a reference so not to offend anyone by using there's and will be satisfied I'm wrong if proven :)

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Anyone?

So final verdict, If I'm keeping the Type B's with my 6266'd RB30DET, what's a good starting point to dial them in? +2 IN -2 EX?

I'd like to reduce the dyno tuning time

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IMO, +4 in and -7 ex as a starting point, but run it up at 0 before anything then go these setting to make sure you are going in the right direction of what you want

I always chase response over anything else, others like to see a peak number, dialling in cams can move the power around a fair bit depending on what you want from your setup

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unless its the same dyno, in the same conditions, with everything config wise identical (no new manifolds etc) THEN DONT USE OLD CHARTS, do a new baseline run, and then change from that, as a small change might not be noticed or might show as a loss when its a gain if you use a dyno chart from before you changed something, or on a different dyno, or with a different ramp, or a different gear, or different weather, idealy it should change yet it can.

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Same dyno, conditions are more or less the same (+ or - a few degrees C) and the manifold is identical to what I had so it should be a good indication in terms of power and response. I still have my datalogs too from my previous runs so I can properly overlay both boost vs rpm to study changes in response.

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