Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

recently converted my patrol to efi and had nothing but issues

its stumbling when revving off idle and poping through the intake I have replaced

fuel pump walbro 255lph in tank

spark plugs and gapped to 1.1

dizzy cap

afm

tps

aac valve

fpr

coolant temp sensor

intake manifold gaskets

put a kit through the injectors and replaced all the seals

timing is set to 15c btdc +2

every now and then it comes good

if I block my return line it revs normal

sometimes it decides to run rich for no reason

any ideas guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451438-rb30e-problems/
Share on other sites

Clean up or replace all the sensor plugs as they corrode and get bad connectivity.

My R31 has been doing this on and off for a while and I've replaced alot of the same things you have but I'm going to be replacing the CAS plug and Coolant temp sensor plug soon.

Get on R31 Skyline Club and you will find this is a VERY common problem with RB30's

Here --->> http://forum.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?board=7.0

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451438-rb30e-problems/#findComment-7438523
Share on other sites

cheers guys just replaced most of the connectors recently ive wired 12v to the coil no difference have noticed its heaps worse if I have no ait filter on the end of my afm if I block the intake partially with my hand it comes good its doing my head in lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451438-rb30e-problems/#findComment-7438612
Share on other sites

Could well be AFM. I'm looking into purchasing a newy or a Refurb as all of the three I have are 20+ years old and unknown condish.

Best I've found so far is a New aftermarket for $175+ post.

PM me if you want one. :thumbsup:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451438-rb30e-problems/#findComment-7438621
Share on other sites

Could be dodge Earths or Loom related. The intake Backfire is supposedly a Lean issue, so any shortage of fuel or incorrect airflow signal could be to blame.

Airleaks, Fuel line Blockage / filter, injectors, so many things.

Have you read the ECU leds for Fault codes?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451438-rb30e-problems/#findComment-7438657
Share on other sites

only codes I'm getting is a/c speed sensor and the one saying everything is working good I've changed all intake gaskets and hoses changes iac and gaskets to try fix the issues no change new fuel pump and fpr i can hear the pump pressurise and there is pressure in the line if i take it off i have only used the stock efi loom earths on the manifold but surely that should be plenty there straight to the battery i have removed the fuel filter there was no change I'm going to buy a new dizzy with cas,o2 sensor,leads see how that goes afar that everything has been changed except the air valve thing on the manifold near the thermostat and the ecu

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451438-rb30e-problems/#findComment-7438669
Share on other sites

The "Air Valve Thing" is the Air Regulator. That should really only do anything on Coldstart, as in, when you start it and let it idle, if the idle drops down after 30secs or so, it's working.

http://wiki.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?title=Air_Regulator

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451438-rb30e-problems/#findComment-7438680
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here is a recipe. Sonic blocks till you get one that has a good enough bore. Get a torque plate and block brace, use your choice of fasteners (arp ect) bolt the thing together empty, half fill it and let it cure. Release it when it has, go to a REPUTABLE RB Builder and get the thing line bored/honed and cylinder honed to size, then wash. Once its all clean and dandy, wash and blow it out again. Then again.  Assemble said engine to your desired clearances with oil control mods, gasket to suit desired CR/Squish ect. Attach your extended sump with proper trap door oil baffles and head drain plumbed to sump with a SUMP BREATHER SYSTEM. Build your front diff with a decent LSD, rebuild your transfer case with a few extra plates, more than likely replace your tailshaft centre bearing and tighten up the rear diff. Tune to minimise excessive midrange cylinder pressure (timing unless you like to split bores and rebuild engines) Enjoy your engine, but hate the fact you are now destroying engine mounts, gearboxes, gearbox mounts, diff output flanges and driveshafts, diff mounts, tailshafts and front CV's.   Disclaimer.... Ive never done any of the aforementioned stuff.......
    • 440s will support well over 400HP on petrol, which is a decent place to be for an RB20. 230+rwkW. Will be a safer bet for idle/low load. 550s would be nice for the extra headroom. I've made the same decision with mine (Neo25). 1000s are probably too big for the Nistuned ECU, so I have some smaller ones.
    • Appreciate everything guys. I did go ahead and get an alignment... most of my complains are solved. Car is not perfect, but it's good enough. If I notice uneven tire wear or anything I'll just take everything back to stock.  Thanks again!
    • They still have not shipped the 550cc injectors as they weren't in stock, so in theory I could ask to get the 440cc ones instead, if those work better in my scenario. They're the same price so really shouldn't be an issue. Unfortunately I am not so knowledgeable in most parts of tuning so I wasn't sure what's best to choose between the two. 440cc ones are the lowest they have (not in stock, but available to buy nonetheless).
×
×
  • Create New...