Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Herd afew people recommend using fish oil, or the more modern form of spray which is called cavity wax, to there cars to prevent corrosion and rust

Exactly where do you apply it ? Inside the doors ? Boot ? Anywhere else ?

Is it worth doing or not worth the effort ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451720-fish-oil/
Share on other sites

Fish oil is a blast from the past.

Used to stink dreadfully and when the car sat in the sun, the oil would drip from every orifice leaving a lovely mess.

You'd get it on your clothes, it would blow on the windscreen forming an impossible to shift smudge.

Cats liked the car though.

Try Tectyl these days, apply with spray gun and applicator nozzle/hose for those sealed areas.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451720-fish-oil/#findComment-7443584
Share on other sites

Lol I remember those days. One g/f refused to be picked up again after I used some on my chemist delivery Escort.

It also blocked drainage holes in the bottom of the doors.

Do you already have spots of surface rust?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451720-fish-oil/#findComment-7443588
Share on other sites

The answer to your question is yes it is worth while. Thin enough to get in between all your seals and seams and the stuff sold today doesn't smell. Spray it in you engine bay, chassis, door frames then wait 2 hours and look for drips to clean up. It cures to a flexible barrier. Reapply it every year or 2. Where there is oil there is no rust. That's why hotrodders and people that to classic restos use it all the time. They use engine oil too... ha ha. sometimes the old way is the best because it's proven to work and fish oil has been doing its job since the early 1900s to present day to prevent rust on ships.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451720-fish-oil/#findComment-7443723
Share on other sites

Hmm, I still had some that's from the 90s - not so thick - not so smelly - just right according to 'Goldilocks' I presume.

My can has never been used for car metal protection - although I'd think about it if I was living near salty air.

Terry-23_zpsf85ed571.jpg

It still comes out of the atomiser after all these years.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451720-fish-oil/#findComment-7443922
Share on other sites

Ha ha. Always used it since an old school panel beater that fixed my HJ back in 86 who had all these old valiants, I said to him about the rust problems they have and he said to me in broken English, ' where there is oil there is never any rust, fish oil everything' ha ha. He used to paint the chassis in engine oil and fish oil everything else. I have done it myself ever since with great success.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451720-fish-oil/#findComment-7443935
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The attached document is fine. I just downloaded & opened it.
    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
×
×
  • Create New...