Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have been running a 25det neo in my r32 for a few years running the following set up:

Walbro in tank fuel pump

Electronic boost controller
3" exhaust
Front mounted intercooler
Pod Filter
Tuned with nistune on BP 98 fuel it made
300 hp 295 ft/lb
dyno_zpse4029ca8.jpg

Having done 12 or so drift days I am wanting to up the power but i want to focus on mid range power / torque specifically , wanting to make a nice torque curve, not focused on a peak kw/hp number but want excellent throttle response.
I have already upgraded the drive line as the rb20det box is finally starting to rumble since i rebuilt it 2 years ago when i did the engine swap.

I am wanting to do bolt on modifications to bump the mid range, i don't want a really narrow power band that kicks in late in the rpm.
There will be plenty of people out there that say build a rb30det but the neo block is still mint condition, makes no blow by so i would rather have a crack and just doing a few bolt on mods and seeing what i can achieve.

Plans so far are
Link g4 computer (can remove a.f.m)

Leave the intake manifold stock and run a blitz style V-mounted intercooler with the intake and outlet on the same side

After market injectors (not sure on what brand or size yet, just know i dont want hi-flowed injetors)

Fuel cell and surge tank set up, not sure on what fuel pumps to run yet, i want to run E85 though so will need to change all the rubber hoses

Turbo, not sure what to run yet, i want to go with an internal waste gate type to keep the actuator and it's rubber diaphragm away from the heat. From the dyno thread on here it looks like guys that run modified stock turbos are way down on torque despite being similar kw number to guy running the likes of garret gt30 series turbos. Could it be worth talking to a turbo guru and getting something made specifically for the task.

Exhaust manifold, not sure what to do here, stock cast manifold is known to be good for not cracking but is it going to be restrictive?
There is a local shop here that guarantees his stainless manifolds against cracking and that the will make more power than off the shelf manifolds.

Cams and adjustable cam gears, Pon cams are damn cheap, are they going to benefit my mid range goals or would something custom or standard be better?

Head gasket, would it pay to upgrade to a steel headgasket? Would it help response bumping the compression up a little by running a thinner gasket?


Thoughts and suggestions? Am I over engineering it?

I'd prefer to plan it all out first than rock up to the tuner running a generic china turbo, exhaust manifold, front facing plenum and come away with 300kw but a dyno plot looking like Mt Ngauruhoe

Thanks in advance!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451735-rb25det-neo-bolt-on-questions/
Share on other sites

I'd say go have a look at the Hypergear thread. Plenty of good results with slightly different set ups to read through. I'd say depending on how much you wanna spend and what your actual power goals are, this would be where I'd go:

Xspurt 1000cc injectors

Walbro 460 pump

Hypergear highflow

Link G4

Will net 300rwkw and be pretty damn responsive. If you feel the need to do cams, do the valve springs and what not with it. Will probably add another $1000 to your build but no point doing one without the other.

And let the varying opinions start :)

For around 260rwkws with same sort responds as your stock turbo. The best option is to find an blown R33 turbocharger and send that in for high flow. Every thing bolts back the way it is and factory looking.

What Brennan said - Injectors, Hypergear turbo, new fuel pump Link G4 (get a mac valve to control boost). No need to change manifolds - spend the money on a good tune.

Buy Josh's turbo or get Steve Murch to make you one.

First of all good attitude, knowing what you want and not being someone willing to cheap out at every turn, make massive dyno numbers and have it all reliable.

You have the basis for a great thing going with all the correct supporting mods. If I was you I would get some 1000cc Bosch EV14 injectors through scottynm35 on these forums. You have a walbro already so fuel system is done. The Bosch injectors also have an added benefit of fitting into the standard neo rail with mucking around.

The only thing left to get is Z32 AFM and a turbo. I would be going a 33/34 high flow from Hypergear, or one of their SS1PU or SS2 offerings for a little bit more poke than a standard highflow will give you. It's a true performance literally bolt on package that will tick all your boxes.

Also here is my dyno graph.

Standard unopened 25 neo, Hypergear internal gate SS2, Bosch 1000cc injectors, nistune ecu, z32 AFM, Gtr intercooler, 3" exhaust, standard intake and exhaust manifolds tuned on 98 octane. It was a powerhouse everywhere in the rev range, drove amazing and was perfect for drifting.

post-84937-14185611425308_thumb.jpg

Thanks so much for the replies guys, just the sort of info I have been looking for.

Out of interest, is there any sort of advantage running the z32 afm when the link g4 allows the tuner to just run off map sensor?

Im guessing I would possibly be able to stay with nistune running the z32 afm?

Yeah somehow I missed that you have a nistune as well. Really the only reason to upgrade to a new ecu (link, haltech, etc) would be if you want to run e85. They also give you a bit more accurate knock protection and a few other input and outputs which will help accurately tune the car.

But really that part is optional. It won't be cheap but I recon if it were my track car running 300rwkw I think I'd want the protection of e85 and other things.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
×
×
  • Create New...