Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok great, I've heard very good things about them from several tuners, however, it's frustrating that I can't use the injectors I've bought already!

Does anyone know anything about the DW 1500s? I'm getting a bit lost between what's made by Bosch and what build in conjunction with Bosch/DW/ID.. Anyone clear this up?

Cheers

And what happens when the 1500cc injectors can't be scaled correctly? I think you should be looking at your ecu selection before shelling out for new injectors again.

The 1500's have just been released, they are based on the stainless 1300's that ID contracted Bosch to make. If you plan to keep running the Wolf, perhaps asking Aznew to swap the 1400's for ev14 1000's is a better option? They will run a little better down low I imagine.

I was thinking that may be the case Scott. I will quite possibly downsize to 1000s however of course, the stainless internals is what I wanted in the first place and if the only choices are xspurt 1400s or ID1300s, it doesn't leave me too many options.

Now that you have told me about the 1500s just being released, I will steer clear of those at the moment too.

I will definitely upgrade the ecu in time but the problem I have is that I live overseas 8 months of the year and only have a short time to get it sorted.. a better ecu will have to be next time round.

Are the EV14 1000s fairly good at withstanding ethanol?

The only thing I was told about the EV14 1000's is that if they are left sitting for a while you may get issues with ethanol, but driving all the time shouldnt have any problems

The 1300cc Stainless injectors are the ones designed to cope 100% with ethanol, but you pay the price. 1000's should be fine unless the car sits for weeks on end etc

The only thing I was told about the EV14 1000's is that if they are left sitting for a while you may get issues with ethanol, but driving all the time shouldnt have any problems

The 1300cc Stainless injectors are the ones designed to cope 100% with ethanol, but you pay the price. 1000's should be fine unless the car sits for weeks on end etc

That is the case with the EV14's that started life as a Bosch 550cc that was de-capped/hi-flowed to 1000cc like the ID1000's.

The "New" EV14 1000cc injector from Bosch is stainless and designed specifically to run ethanol etc.

Check my link above

Edited by Sub Boy32

Ok cool. Cheers for the info everyone. Looks like I will have to flush the system with unleaded before letting it sit regardless.

If I run the 1000s I hope I can get enough out of them. Would hate to go through the whole conversion process to find I don't make a power gain because I run out of injector..

Ahh right. Yeah I have seen a little bit on the new proper 1000cc's.

Wish these were around when I'd bought mine but ill live

Me too, I have ID1000's in my car at the moment, I've seen the spray pattern difference between the ID1000 and the new Bosch 1000's....and the new ones are much better

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...