Jump to content
SAU Community

Air Conditioning Back Into An R32 Gtst

sama1500

By sama1500,
in General Automotive Discussion

 Share

Recommended Posts

sama1500 Collaborator

sama1500

Posted
Posted

i've already made this post but wasnt getting much response to im trying posting here.

so i've had my car for about a year now, bought it without aircon and was happy with it but i think i'll be keeping it for a while to come and want to put the air con back in, i want to know whats involved in doing this, parts i need etc. the car currently has the climate control thing and everything on it works, except for the fact there is no actual aircon system in there

Sinista32 Grand Master

Sinista32

Posted
Posted

Yeah. You got better info in your other thread

My point being is it's not easy. Not even for some people who work on car AC's for a living.

Skylines AC was sophisticated for it's time but it's different from other vehicles

Getting the 2nd hand parts and putting it together . Do they even work? How would you know ?

Then find out some components need replacing. Thermister, receiver dryer, condenser, all the sensors, using correct ohm resistors

There will also be a level of fault finding and rectification once it's together.

I hope you have the AC manual with wiring diagram and fault codes/diagnosis The AC diagnosis will give you good information and point to the issues

But if your not an AC / Auto elec it's going to be a bugger because you need an understanding and be able to trace wiring faults and remedy.

Somethings your better off not doing DIY.

sama1500 Collaborator

sama1500

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Why do you think i'm posting here if i knew how to do it myself? i asked for a list of parts and wanted to know what's involved in the process, i know its complicated and i never planned on doing the entire thing myself but i wanted to get an idea of what i could get myself and what i could do myself and then once majority of it is done give it to someone who knows what they're doing to finish up all the wiring/little details. If i wanted to simply give my car to someone else to do the entire thing for me and spend a fortune in the process then i wouldnt be on this thread, and yes your initial information was totally useless because i asked for parts and a process and you told me to go do it myself or get someone to do it, please learn how to read and answer a question while using your brain before you write a reply thanks

sama1500 Collaborator

sama1500

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yet again your info wasnt helpful, i live in qld and theres plenty of places i can get parts nearby, what i asked for in the original post was a list of parts i needed for this, for example what parts i need to get new and what i'll be fine with second hand and whats involved in the whole process, i have gotten a response in my other thread although i'd like more than one source of input just to see if theres anything he missed etc, unless you know whats involved and a list of parts i need or a source with that information then stop wasting my time and get off this post

  • Like 1
jiffo Mentor

jiffo

Posted
Posted

No photos posted on what's already in the car so how can anyone give correct advice.

For all we know it might only need a compressor but then again the whole evaporator unit may be missing.

If the evaporator is there, perhaps it's rooted and could be a reason the previous owner ditched the aircon .

Too many unknowns.

sama1500 Collaborator

sama1500

Posted
  • Author
Posted

im being rude because he was being rude lol, and jiffo maybe people can just ask those questions i can give a response? i dont plan on writing out every single detail of my car and hope some of it is relevant information haha, im assuming the previous owner pulled out the AC because there used to be a big single turbo rb26 in it, and i can provide pictures of the engine bay and all that if needed but from what i can tell nothing on the interior of the firewall has been pulled out just all the engine bay components

jiffo Mentor

jiffo

Posted
Posted

So you're saying the evaporator is still in position.

Did previous owner seal the high/low pressure fittings at the firewall? This is vital or contaminants will have entered the system and you'd be spending a lot of time and effort on a blocked TX valve as a minimum.

The engine bay components are the compressor, condenser/filter dryer and the connecting pipework.

There should also be a thermo fan in front of the left side radiator.

None of this is much use though, without the electricals. Hope previous owner left all that intact.

Mounted on the bonnet latch strut should be the ambient air temp. sensor.

In one heater pipe at the firewall should be the coolant temp sensor.

Inside the car on top of the dash should be the sunload sensor.

If the evaporator is untouched its sensors will still be there.

It's a complicated system.

Best chance is to find the complete setup from a 32 half cut.

  • Like 1
sama1500 Collaborator

sama1500

Posted
  • Author
Posted

so to update i couldnt find any electicals because i wasnt too sure what to look for, the fittings weren't sealed, im fairly sure i found a sunload sensor on the dash and couldnt find the air temp sensor, i'll post some pics as well

jiffo Mentor

jiffo

Posted
Posted

Here's some photos from my 32.

The ambient air temp is that cad. plated box and may not be exactly as this one is due to the fitment of a magnificent horn.

The thermo fan can also be seen.

Filter/dryer is attached to the condenser.

High and low pressure fittings at firewall. These are going to cause you a headache as yours were left open to atmosphere.

Suggest you have a talk to an aircon. specialist to see if they can flush your evaporator.

Explain your situation, it's bound to have happened previously.

In fact I gave a mate an under-dash aircon unit for his Statesman way back when. Unit had been kicking around in the dirt for years yet he installed it and the experts made it run fine.

Your electricals will pose problems if they've been hacked off. You may have to strip back the various harnesses to find the remnants of circuits.

post-73571-0-82074500-1422507319_thumb.jpg

post-73571-0-78595000-1422507335_thumb.jpg

post-73571-0-17386400-1422507351_thumb.jpg

sama1500 Collaborator

sama1500

Posted
  • Author
Posted

awesome, well for starters i'll go get it checked out by an aircon specialist about the evaporator and after that i'll get all the parts i'll need and either install it myself and get all the little things sorted out by a pro or just get someone to install everything in one go

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • GTSBoy
      DeAgostini 1/8 scale BNR32 Nissan Skyline GT-R Nismo

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That's hilariously putrid!
    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
×
×
  • Create New...