Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys I've got a r34 gtt with a built r33 motor in it.

The main mods are:

Forged bottom end

HKS step 1 cams

Trust td06SH 25g kit

Haltech plat. pro

Greddy stle manifold

555cc denso injectors

aeromotive 340 fuel pump

splitfire coilpacks

apexi avcr ebc

320rwkw at 20psi on bp98

The motor ran perfect while it was in my r33, after i put it in my 34 and got it retuned, its been fine. Boosted as per normal etc, but every now and then it would turn off under full boost but very rarely.

Now after 2-3 months i have two main issues and one minor:

1. It doesn't hit full boost, bounces only between 0.9 to 1.1 bar

2. The turning off problem has gotten worse, today it would just turn off EVERY time i try to hit boost around 0.7bar

3. Minor issue: the idle sometimes drops to somewhere around 500rpm so i have to hold the gas pedal to bring it to around 1000rpm, but thats not all the time

Does any one have any idea where the problem could be?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/453883-boost-issues/
Share on other sites

Says haltec platinum pro in his post, you need to see what the ecu is doing maybee it's cutting on purpose, maybee you have a dead sensor, maybe something else is failing.

Missed that whoops.

Ring haltech tech support or try and find a manual for your ecu. It will mention it somwhere.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/453883-boost-issues/#findComment-7481239
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sorry I haven't been following all the detail, so you may have tried this. Does it idle with the tiniest bit of throttle you can add? You've mentioned the IACV, does it have an AAC valve and have you adjusted it at all (ie, screw the idle adjust screw all the way in, then back it out a couple of turns until idle is stable)?
    • My bad, I unplugged the one underlined in red instead of yellow before. With the car started, after unplugging the IACV (the one underlined in yellow), it idled at around 400/500 for 3 seconds before stalling. Attempting to start the car without the IACV will not start the car.   It does stutter and sputter for around 5 seconds before dying. However, immediately after starting it, you can already hear some slight sputters from the exhaust.   It won't start with the AFM unplugged. If it is when the car has already started, it stalls in a few seconds.   Yesterday, I did take some logs using Nistune of 3 scenarios. Car idling till it stalls Car idling and unplugging the IACV Car idling and removing the AFM I also have some previous logs of when the Car is idling till it stalls and when driving and it cuts. I am not really knowledgeable enough to understand what to look for. After every test, car idles rougher and rougher, until I have to stop. It will be fine the day after.
    • There is no difference between a 17x8 and an 18x8. The total diameter of the tyre needs to remain +/- the same (so you don't mess up the gearing, speedo reading, and clearance when turning front wheels..... so you just need to use a lower profile tyre on th 18 than you do on the 17. /rocket surgery.
    • I thought the same to start with. But then I thought it was one of those LCAs where the end of the ARB goes through a bushing in the LCA itself, instead of having an end link.
    • Yeah - I mean, go the other way. Smaller range. Not larger.
×
×
  • Create New...