Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1994 BNR32

82,700 original kilometers

Grade 4b at auction

Owners manual + Service history

Spare Key

One owner in japan

I recently imported the car as a daily but some circumstances have changed and i'm wanting something a little better suited to every day driving so im putting this up to see what sort of interest there is.

Its a very solid car, exterior is in great condition besides a couple of touch ups on the front bar. There are two small 5c piece sized dents in the front guard being repaired.

Interior is immaculate and original apart from a head unit and a couple of gauges. The seats are mark free and very firm. No bubbles in the dash and the doors are mark free. Only minor issue is the trim on the B pillars is starting to fall away but its an easy fix.

Underbody is very clean and rust free. A couple of the sills unfortunately have bent up front jacking although I booked the car in today to have them repaired.

The car is mechanically very solid. The clutch engage point was very high when I received the car so i've bought a Nismo Super coppermix twin plate which will be going in next week.

Overall its a great car with NO accident history and fairly original besides the motor ofcourse. I've been very honest with the condition so there are no suprises.

Engine specs;

Tomei TRB500 crate engine tuning number 0119

Bore & Stroke φ86.5 × 73.7
Emissions 2597cc
Compression ratio 8.3
Maximum output of 500PS / 7500rpm
Maximum torque 51.0kgm / 5500rpm
Supercharging pressure 1.2kg / cm2

HKS 2530 turbo's

TOMEI Forged Pistons
TOMEI piston ring
TOMEI metal connecting rod
TOMEI Poncam A type (In260-9.15 / Ex252-9.15)
TOMEI valve spring
TOMEI valve guide
TOMEI Metal Head Gasket
TOMEI 555cc injectors
TOMEI ECU
TOMEI fuel pump
TOMEI oil gallery orifice
NISMO thermostat
TOMEI oil pan baffle plate

NISMO Supper Coppermix TWIN PLATE clutch BRAND NEW

OHLIN suspension

Apexi cat back

Unknown front pipe

HKS oil cooler

HKS intake

HKS front mount

ARC radiator

Greddy exhaust temp guage

HKS boost guage

HKS EVC boost controller

The car just went through RWC when it was complianced and had all the fluids changed.. i will be replacing diff oil and gearbox oil when clutch gets done. RWC however will need to be negotiated as i know cat back exhaust/wheels/suspension will probably need to be changed to standard for it to pass and i dont have these parts

Looking for $26,000 with TE37's (excellent conditon, no rash or marks)

$24,000 with the 17x9's pictured

This price is with no RWC, 11 months Rego left

(Keep in mind the clutch itself is $1900 plus installation)

Happy for any inspections and questions

Contact Jason on 0401910780

text before 3.30pm, can call afterwards

post-44600-0-14188700-1424083498_thumb.jpg

post-44600-0-18933800-1424083510_thumb.jpg

post-44600-0-84499800-1424083532_thumb.jpg

post-44600-0-25920800-1424083579_thumb.jpg

post-44600-0-51202800-1424083636_thumb.jpg

post-44600-0-16428200-1424083676_thumb.jpg

post-44600-0-59428200-1424083823_thumb.jpg

post-44600-0-80979500-1424083899_thumb.jpg

post-44600-0-16432600-1424084008_thumb.jpg

post-44600-0-73018200-1424084060_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/453922-1994-r32-gtr/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reading through the engine service manual their advice is do a cylinder balance test. Unplug one injector at a time and see if the idle drops a consistent RPM. You can also do this using a Consult cable which is easier. They also call for unplugging the power transistor, then with the engine off and the fuel rail unhooked from the manifold verifying that you have good fuel flow (even injection, no dripping/leaks, etc) when you twist the CAS by hand. Also verify the spark by pulling the spark plugs and allowing the plugs to ground and turning the CAS by hand. I would also start doing the sensor checks and idle valve checks in service manual. Make sure the MAF tests reasonably, the intake air regulator is sane, etc. You may have to get new spark plugs.
    • This sounds very old of me, however since buying the Tiguan shit box, my view on shit boxes have changed.
    • I've looked up the parts number (41011AL501). It's around $700 OEM. Usually our Infiniti G35 here in Canada have interchangeable parts with my Stagea but the parts number are not the same. I have looked around and it seems the JDM 2005 V35 Skyline (which is the same as our G35) has the same caliper but I cannot confirm. And I can't find a repair kit. The inner brake pads drags on the rotor, seems to be rusty piston. Thanks for the info by the way
    • This coupled with 6-9 speed autos with ridiculously short gearing is why these modern shitbox cars always seem so fast off the line. If it wasn't for those things, Raptors would not seem fast. The problem we have is there is a driveability gap between a more gentle take off and a wheelspinning sideways launch. The difference between ankle flex required to achieve one and ankle flex required to achieve the other is about 0.5°.
    • Yeah I think I'm also with the opposite here. It's 'hard to keep up with traffic' because in the real world I'm accelerating with 15% throttle and they are pinning it. It feels like I'm being an overt dickhead at anything above 15% throttle, so the car sounds like I'm being an overt dickhead to keep up with/get ahead of traffic when I'm really just trying to drive with traffic. There would be no issue 'keeping up with traffic' if we used the same level of throttle input/aggression to drive around. People really do just drive around with their foot nearly pinned in econoboxes.
×
×
  • Create New...