Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thanks cuspub and Thunder for those posts, its not too late yet but was planning the extractors and cats to be done next week.

These posts really open up a can of worms, Ive actually been reading a lot of your posts Thunder on the ls1 site, I think you said on there that when tuned there wasn't much difference between tri -y and 4 into 1 down low but I didn't think the ground clearance would be an issue on stock suspension, I will keep it stock for ride comfort.

I don't think mine will stay too standard in the long run, my current plan is to do full exhaust, mafless tune, and im thinking a manual conversion ( as funds become available) as ive seen plenty of 6speed box's with most accessories for around $1500, so selling my auto would make it appealing cost wise...

As with the R33, most people want response and low end torque, but when giving some stick its more rewarding if it pulls hard to the redline or close, eg ( gt3076 on rb25) , so for the sake of future mods I'm still leaning toward the 4 into 1's, I know I seem to have changed my thinking from the first posts, just seems ill get bored eventually by having a good bottom end but then giving it squirts and feeling its legless....

What I don't want is a situation where it is very doughy down low and thirsty, with stock exhaust I managed a 11L/100km mixed driving, was babying it a bit with some odd squirts.

This Youtube video sounds ideal to me and is what made me get the DF catback, it sounds quality without being silly loud. https://youtu.be/A_xcV4nMvdQ

Also the 4 into 1's on these youtube clips do seems to sound deeper than tri-y?? this one also is what im after sound wise , https://youtu.be/SJ9Zblxhwuw

I think that single system probably is better, would be much simpler , I think the twin system quietens it down too much, I think for now im going to get the extractors and cats and see how it sounds, might get the 3.5 single later and sell the DF if it doesn't sound good enough.. can do that anytime really.

Wish I lived in NSW, would of been easier to come visit Thunder from the start , so will the 4 into 1's make it less torquey than standard?? I don't wanna go backwards too much...

Edited by AngryRB

Hey Count. I am not an exhaust expert like thunder for example. In fact Greg has an awesome reputation for his product. All I can say about the older HSV systems is that whether HSV or SS, they both love a more free flowing system. In fact it's fair to suggest that the LS1 (vt to vz) responds far better than their later brethren.

How many cats does the 3.5inch system use?

so what is your recommendation Greg, for an angry sounding exhaust system similar to the youtube vids I showed, just want to make sure that if I got the 4 into 1's that I can still use them with the cats if I change to the 3.5inch catback.. assume that it will go manual and probably a mild cam , around 250-300kw.

This Youtube sounds meaty, https://youtu.be/CYHOVS4lc44 and yes of course that thing is gonna get thrashed lol.. that guy is funny!

Edited by AngryRB

The only model HSV headers that were good from the factory are the VY2, and these are nearly as good as a set of aftermarket tri-y's. They are still a bit restricted in the collector, but far better than any other model. VT-VY1 are rubbish so don't bother with them.

From the extractors you have one cat on each side. The 3.5" system is twin 2.5" which merges into a single 3.5" system, so it still uses both cats.

The video clips you posted that sound good have cams fitted, which makes them sound aggro, and they sound even better with a 3.5" system. The size of the cam and the way it is tuned also have an effect on the sound. Search on Youtube for "Sureflo 3.5" and you will probably find some cammed cars up there as well. Ballistic 100cpsi Racing cats also make the sound a lot louder and deeper and add around 10rwkw to your power.

The price of 2nd hand cars now, if you want to modify a car, I would seriously think of selling yours and upgrading to a VZ - VE which have the 6.0 litre, that way you can look for a manual. On the VE they spread the wheels by 100mm so it also handles better. It may not cost much in the changeover, so I would look around.

The 5.7 is very doggy down low, but the 6.0 has far more power and torque right through the rev range. The modifications you are talking about are probably $10k and will have it going as good or a bit better than a stock 6.0 litre. I would start with the 6.0 litre and then bang for buck you will get much more enjoyment.

On a 5.7 if you want to fit 4>1 you really need to upgrade the diff to 3.73 for auto or 3.9 for manual which will fix the lack of power and torque down low. This is probably another $1500 on top of the manual conversion. The cam/valve spring upgrade will probably cost $5k by the time it is tuned, and then you may need to upgrade the fuel as well. You are talking big money if you are going this far, but if you traded for a manual VZ or manual VE the changeover won't be too much if you look around.

They were also selling the VF GTS supercharged crate engines for around $13k-15k brand new - that would be a weapon straight out of the box!!!

It's only money!!! :whistling:

Cheers

Greg

The system appears to have a natural resonant point that is inconvenient. It is all a black art. Repositioning any component in the exhaust will have an effect. This sometimes can't be done. I presume it has a balance tube or x pipe. If not fit a balance tube. If it has either of them temporarily block one pipe at the exit and go for a short drive and see if the drone is gone. Big chance it has. Bigger mufflers will probably have a positive effect. Active systems rid this problem. Anyway do the block test . (Active Exhaust Systems)

The only model HSV headers that were good from the factory are the VY2, and these are nearly as good as a set of aftermarket tri-y's. They are still a bit restricted in the collector, but far better than any other model. VT-VY1 are rubbish so don't bother with them.

The price of 2nd hand cars now, if you want to modify a car, I would seriously think of selling yours and upgrading to a VZ - VE which have the 6.0 litre, that way you can look for a manual. On the VE they spread the wheels by 100mm so it also handles better. It may not cost much in the changeover, so I would look around.

The 5.7 is very doggy down low, but the 6.0 has far more power and torque right through the rev range. The modifications you are talking about are probably $10k and will have it going as good or a bit better than a stock 6.0 litre. I would start with the 6.0 litre and then bang for buck you will get much more enjoyment.

Thanks Greg and I'm beginning to think I'd better off moving on with my VX2 into something modern like VE, simply cos they respond to mods better plus newer chassis.

Oh and another question for you, how restrictive are VE HSV headers? Every time I tried to ger answer, people dribble stuff like brand x is the best followed by another person saying brand y is the best blah blah.

I know I can search/ask these holden/hsv forums but I can't spend more than 30 seconds before punching the laptop cos I can't comprehend what they are saying haha.

  • Like 1

The dual 2.5" systems sound disappointing, so DF removed their "Kiss Pipe" (merge) and it basically just has a small hole between the pipes. This makes the sound beefier and why they do it that way. Other people chop out mufflers to make them sound better and this increases the drone.

Yes, fitting a proper full flow merge will help with the drone. Yes, fitting bigger mufflers will make it drone less, but it also kills the sound. Bi Modal systems, ie vacuum operated valves, block the flow in order to stop the droning. They work, but they also restrict the power. These are all costly.

There is no substitute for R&D as there is a balance between power, sound & no drone, and most systems fail on one or more of these.

It is no use having a no drone system that sounds like a vacuum cleaner, or one that blocks a pipe to stop the drone as it robs power.

It is no benefit spending 3 times the amount you need to spend using a system with valves when it robs power and sound as well.

With lots of experimenting and R&D you can have a 3.5" system that is completely straight through, sounds great and doesn't drone.

The difference being, it was specifically designed for this car, for auto and manual, and so it makes power, sounds great and doesn't drone.

Cheers

Greg

Cheers

Greg

Thanks Greg and I'm beginning to think I'd better off moving on with my VX2 into something modern like VE, simply cos they respond to mods better plus newer chassis.

Oh and another question for you, how restrictive are VE HSV headers? Every time I tried to ger answer, people dribble stuff like brand x is the best followed by another person saying brand y is the best blah blah.

I know I can search/ask these holden/hsv forums but I can't spend more than 30 seconds before punching the laptop cos I can't comprehend what they are saying haha.

On the VE, the pipe into the cat is only 2" or 2.25" at best and it comes from a vertical angle into a chamber. This creates turbulence and a big restriction as the gas has to change direction to horizontal to pass through the tiny 600cpsi holes in the cat and exit through a 2" hole. Therefore whether it is the HSV headers or the Holden Manifolds, it still has the same restriction.

We do a set of 4>1 1-7/8" stainless extractors that are tight to the engine and finish in 3.5" with an internal spike in the collector. Our Ballistic 100cpsi Racing cat is a 5" body which is 3.5" inlet and after the gas passes through the substrate it tapers down to 3" pipe size. We offset the body of the cat upwards, so it doesn't hang low, even on lowered cars. No O2 harness extensions are needed and the cat back sports system shouldn't need to be modified.

Cheers

Greg

Thanks Greg and I'm beginning to think I'd better off moving on with my VX2 into something modern like VE, simply cos they respond to mods better plus newer chassis.

Oh and another question for you, how restrictive are VE HSV headers? Every time I tried to ger answer, people dribble stuff like brand x is the best followed by another person saying brand y is the best blah blah.

I know I can search/ask these holden/hsv forums but I can't spend more than 30 seconds before punching the laptop cos I can't comprehend what they are saying haha.

On the VE, the pipe into the cat is only 2" or 2.25" at best and it comes from a vertical angle into a chamber. This creates turbulence and a big restriction as the gas has to change direction to horizontal to pass through the tiny 600cpsi holes in the cat and exit through a 2" hole. Therefore whether it is the HSV headers or the Holden Manifolds, it still has the same restriction.

We do a set of 4>1 1-7/8" stainless extractors that are tight to the engine and finish in 3.5" with an internal spike in the collector. Our Ballistic 100cpsi Racing cat is a 5" body which is 3.5" inlet and after the gas passes through the substrate it tapers down to 3" pipe size. We offset the body of the cat upwards, so it doesn't hang low, even on lowered cars. No O2 harness extensions are needed and the cat back sports system shouldn't need to be modified.

Cheers

Greg

We don't do any for the 5.0 litre. I would use a set of Pacemaker.

Cheers

Greg

Thanks Greg and I'm beginning to think I'd better off moving on with my VX2 into something modern like VE, simply cos they respond to mods better plus newer chassis.

Oh and another question for you, how restrictive are VE HSV headers? Every time I tried to ger answer, people dribble stuff like brand x is the best followed by another person saying brand y is the best blah blah.

I know I can search/ask these holden/hsv forums but I can't spend more than 30 seconds before punching the laptop cos I can't comprehend what they are saying haha.

On the VE, the pipe into the cat is only 2" or 2.25" at best and it comes from a vertical angle into a chamber. This creates turbulence and a big restriction as the gas has to change direction to horizontal to pass through the tiny 600cpsi holes in the cat and exit through a 2" hole. Therefore whether it is the HSV headers or the Holden Manifolds, it still has the same restriction.

We do a set of 4>1 1-7/8" stainless extractors that are tight to the engine and finish in 3.5" with an internal spike in the collector. Our Ballistic 100cpsi Racing cat is a 5" body which is 3.5" inlet and after the gas passes through the substrate it tapers down to 3" pipe size. We offset the body of the cat upwards, so it doesn't hang low, even on lowered cars. No O2 harness extensions are needed and the cat back sports system shouldn't need to be modified.

Cheers

Greg

Thanks Greg.

Im gonna get some TRI-Y's and 100cell cats, I don't want to risk the car turning into a sloth at street speeds, I may as well leave the catback alone and see if the sound changes afterwards, Not intending to spend $10k plus on this, its just for some daily fun and sound.. The sureflow does sound pretty good, but will give this DF catback a chance to shine first..

I had a go at taking out the short segments of 2inch pipe a few days ago, started cutting up those front pipes, I found a 2inch pipe within the front 2 1/4 inch pipe, its surrounded by steel wool, bloody hell that's sneaky shit, so I welded some 2.5inch pipe from the manifold to the cats and cleaned out a cat, I know bad idea. It was pretty hard for an amateur with a MIG welder, wont do that again, but the car has picked up some sound so im looking forward to getting some extractors and cats now... :yes:

Edited by AngryRB

If you check out my stage 3 active system , www.activeexhaustsystems.com.au you can see the advantages. Drones are usually caused by high flow systems that are in cruise mode with low gas flow rates. With my kit when in low performance mode there is a generated back-pressure , regulated. The drone is gone. When tripped into high performance mode by tps switching max flow is achieved. It is a closed loop system which is fully adjustable. There is no loss of performance only less noise most of the time and no drone.

Yes, the valves have their uses, and in some vehicles (Bridgeported rotaries, etc) it is the only way to keep them quiet.

How much would a dual 2.5" cat back system be with your setup?

I'm guessing it is pretty expensive by the time everything is fitted, wired and plumbed up.

These cars aren't too hard to stop the drone.

I can imagine the car would sound awesome with the valves in place just behind the middle mufflers because removing the rear pipes and resonator made it sound awesome..

Greg, what extractors and size do you have on this Green VY SS, https://youtu.be/2PfB7qhRHts , sounds like porn.

My stage 3 kit is $1200. I am looking for a big company to manufacture and market the product hopefully US. I have a lj torana fitted with a 500 hp chevy , dual 3" exhaust fitted with my stage 3 kit. I am going to make a demonstration video soon to explain the operation. Hyperflow Technologies , now dead , used to market it. Not many people know about it. I sold some to Evotechnics Motorsport in Abu Dabi. One of the good features of this system versus bimodal mufflers is when you want to swap vehicles you can remove the kit .

Found a Youtube clip where they compare header size, its a much bigger motor but the comparisons are interesting because the bigger headers don't loose any power. Its good to see some analysis on a dyno to show something about headers size.

4 into 1's are pretty sexy pipes

https://youtu.be/01bXPNy1Yn4

Edited by AngryRB

Found a Youtube clip where they compare header size, its a much bigger motor but the comparisons are interesting because the bigger headers don't loose any power. Its good to see some analysis on a dyno to show something about headers size.

4 into 1's are pretty sexy pipes

https://youtu.be/01bXPNy1Yn4

Not entirely true

Quite a few people have gone to bigger pipes...or spent a fortune on have custom stepped headers made etc etc

only to loose a few 10ths at the strip over off the shelf headers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Seat of the pants assessment of the new intake: The car is way less "doughy" when hitting the loud pedal, especially off idle when stopped or in traffic, I did use a cheapo lazer thermal thingo to measure the temp around where the pod filter got its air, it was between 55 - 60°C, in saying this the car was shut off and not moving, so the OEM intake pipe was not supplying any fresh air to where the pod was when the car was at least moving A weird bonus was induction noise on the throttle in the cabin increased a bit,  I was worried that I was actually going to lose some of that induction noise I love so much, outside though, when I got the daughter to do a WOT drive by pass for me, the induction noise has increased alot when on the throttle, not quite ITB doort, but well up there I'm extremely happy with the results and have been exploring the country roads in the region  As for house mods: 1.New front fence is up and is awesome, it really upgraded how the joint looks from the street, and the added security is nice 2. Electricians have replace some interior lights, and with more lighting in the garage, a few new motion detecting lights out the front above the garage, front room, and at the front door, which I have already found heaps helpful coming and going, also now has fancy pants CCTV all round the house The only hold point for power though is the solar and batteries due to supply issues, although this will happen over the next few weeks 3. I have done a heap of landscaping out the front and I'm almost ready to do a new small retaining wall with some nice blocks to replace the brick and cemented in rocks around the raised garden beds cemented in river stone "was the fashion at the time" the house was built. I currently have a pallet of retaining wall blocks and 2 bulka bags of 20mm blue metal to replace the wood chip that is in the raised garden beds around the house 4. I now have 3 big raised garden beds for out the back to grow some vegetables, about 70cm high, 200cm long and 100cm wide 5. My 2 compost bins are already pretty full with brown, green and kitchen waste from the landscaping I'vedone so far, but they will probably take a few months to break down, so anything else that gets chopped, trimmed, and kitchen waste will just start filling the base of the raised garden beds to about 30cm before I start throwing 40cm of good compost, and stuff, for the vegetables to grow in, I'll need a few ton of compost and soil, but the local supplier can sent me bulka bags of the stuff Basically the logs, wood chips and a few strategically placed rocks for drainage, will give the beds some good organic materials down low to break down over time, and they will hold moisture during the warmer months to save the water in my big arse water tank if we don't get alot of rain So, all in all, the car and house mods are going well, and I'm really enjoying being retired, I sleep in too 0700 and slowly plod around inside until I feel like actually doing anything, and only work in the yard for as long as want, which has actually been alot over the last few weeks,  although when you look at it, it seems that not a huge amount of work has been done,  until I look at the before I started the work pics Happy days and good times indeed 
    • hahaha yeah. Plan is to get side skirts and probably just rear pods. But going to do them one-by-one. I've got a set that I really like from RHDJapen, but that one isn't shipped to AU. So need to find someone who can get it for me
    • Here's an idea, answer the questions I asked you as they are trying to work out WHY the LSD will be binding up in a straight line.
    • You haven't driven many modern cars then have you? Most of them have sfa steering feel with their stupid electric bullshit steering systems.
×
×
  • Create New...