Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys!

when i bought my r32 gtst with rb25de it never had a charcoal canister, the vent line was simply capped off and i also noticed when you unscrew the fuel cap it never whiffed out air like its meant to and i always had a pretty strong fuel fume smell while driving no matter what windows up/windows down didn't seem to matter.. after a while i thought i would plumb it back in, bought the canister hooked it up correctly and tested it out over the next few weeks, the smell seemed to have gone but then when the windows where down it was stronger then ever...

about a year ago i replaced the fuel pump with a walbro and replaced the fuel lines from the tank to the hard lines and when i got the car i replaced from the hard lines to the filter and then to the rail.. but it still smelt


so i did some more research and found that they have a common leak area with in the compliance fuel restrictor, i pulled that out and found that the sealant they had used had perished, i re-sealed it with sickaflex and it still smelt..

so now bassicly I'm after advice on what steps to take next.. a lot of people have said to replace the o ring above the fuel pump but I'm almost certain that is sealed correctly as you can't smell anything in the boot...

the only thing i can think of it being is the filler neck itself or the vent lines from the tank... I'm pretty much at the stage that i want to drop the tank and replace everything... if anyone has any advice or ideas please let me know and thank you in advance!



post-120683-0-94272800-1426413525_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/454775-fuel-smell-while-driving/
Share on other sites

Leaky injectors ?

Does it have the PCV connected and works

Does it have a catch can and is that vented to the atmosphere

Is it just running rich. What is the AFR's

Do you smell it when its

- Idling

- Moving

- when it is off (then it's a leak)

I had the same issue with my r33 Gtst. I ended up prying out the fuel neck compliance thingy, cleaning it up and using sikaflex to create a nice new seal for it and refitting it. Now the fuel smell is gone and when I go to fill up at the servo you can hear the pssssshhh sound which would never happen before.

If that doesn't fix it then just replace the fuel pump o ring as its a cheap fix (might need replacing after you changed your fuel pump) this was the cause for my in cabin fuel smell when I had my S15.

What hose did you use when you replaced the lines? Some hoses are just prone to be stinky.

Charcoal canister hooked up correctly? When you say the vent line was capped off do you mean the vent for the fuel tank was closed/blocked off?

I'd replace the fuel pump o-ring, cheap, easy and quick to do, leave the guesswork out of it.

picking up a new oring tomorrow, ill fit it and see how i go,

yep cannister hooked up correctly as far as i can see, i compared it to a mates on
and yes the vent line coming from the tank had a bit of hose coming off with a screw in it hose clamped on


i put the car in the air last night, turned it on and got under couldn't smell or see anything...doesnt gel

I had the same issue with my r33 Gtst. I ended up prying out the fuel neck compliance thingy, cleaning it up and using sikaflex to create a nice new seal for it and refitting it. Now the fuel smell is gone and when I go to fill up at the servo you can hear the pssssshhh sound which would never happen before.

If that doesn't fix it then just replace the fuel pump o ring as its a cheap fix (might need replacing after you changed your fuel pump) this was the cause for my in cabin fuel smell when I had my S15.

most likely this.

heard of this plenty of times and usually is the filler neck leaking. Was the same on mine. I found this gives a really strong smell into the cabin as its so close to ur door.

Move your car out into the sun for a while and then when it is nice n warm go and sit in the drivers seat and look back thru ur wing mirror past the petrol filler port. you will probably see fumes coming out- I could before I fixed my filler neck.

If this doesn't fix it then look into where the lines are going to that used to be connected to the charcoal canister.

Edited by jjman

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
×
×
  • Create New...