Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So i have a Tial MVR external wastegate and a Gizmo ebc ( first edition) 4 memory

I was running gate spring pressure @ 16 pound fine.

I now tried to hook my EBC up like below

Blocked off the remaining air ports on the wastegate, 2 bottom, 1 top there is total 3 bottom 2 top.

Problem is, when hooked up this way, with the controller set to 0 or even the mac solenoid unplugged

I boost to possibly over 24 psi

2 questions.

1. Is this correct?

2. If your ebc stops working, do you overboost?

ewg_conn_1.GIF

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/455280-external-wastegate-ebc-problem/
Share on other sites

I have a Synapse wastegate with 4 ports and it took me a while to work out how to set it up. I had to reread the instructions for the W/G a few times. What I am saying is the instructions that came with the EBC may be not enough to tell you how to set up your Tial. Is there anything on their website?

BTW what kind of ECU do you have? It may do a better job of controlling your Mac valve than the EBC.

Pardon me if I am wrong.....but ...... all of the lower air ports are common, aren't they? They just give you orientation options for making connections. So effectively you have one top port and one bottom port, same as pretty much any EWG actuator, and treat it as such.

Which is what i have done.
Blocked off the unused ports, i only have 1 line in the lower, and 1 line in the upper.

If i do have it plumbed in correctly, ( which i believe i do ), if for some reason my EBC is not working, would that cause no pressure to get to the wastegate therefore making the gate never open?

If that is how this routing works, seems like a bad point of failure if your ebc loses power/stops working

Im hoping i understand this wrong.

Also, if you have the solenoid ports the wrong way around you can mess yourself up.

The whole thing with the top/bottom ports on EWG actuators is that the boost gets applied to one side of the diaphragm to help keep the gate closed until the EBC opens the solenoid to also put boost on the other side of the diaphragm, and therefore start to open it and control boost. If the solenoid is hooked up wrong you can get into trouble.

You can set up EWGs without using top and bottom ports. Perhaps have a look at the EBC instructions to see how to do that and try to see if you have any boost control action at all.

Ok so it was 2 problems
The Gizmo Diagram was wrong.

Swapped around the lines.

Copied my brothers setup, ( different ebc but still mac )

But didnt raise boost, but gate was opening now.

Traced wiring, and the solenoid pins going into the Controller where pushed out of the plug hah...

So all working now.

20 psi tune tomorrow ftw

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...