Jump to content
SAU Community

Parts To Replace

FireFox-89
 Share

Recommended Posts

FireFox-89 Enthusiast

FireFox-89

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Stock cambelts are good for up to 130,000 so if you replace them every 100,000 you will be fine.

Read the buyer's guide above and wait till you get the car to see if anything needs doing.

Cheers mate :)

FireFox-89 Enthusiast

FireFox-89

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I'll bare that in mind, the Stagea's in the UK are rare than in Australia so we'll see what comes onto the market, also I prefer the look of the series one.

What is different about the engines, I thought they both used RB25DET engines?

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

I'll bare that in mind, the Stagea's in the UK are rare than in Australia so we'll see what comes onto the market, also I prefer the look of the series one.

What is different about the engines, I thought they both used RB25DET engines?

I too like the look of the series 1 but the series 2 has the advantage of an easily modified ecu which is a major headahe with S1.

S1 has RB25DET from R33

S2 has RB25DET Neo engine from R34 - better head and turbo - more power.

zoomzoom Mentor

zoomzoom

Posted
Posted

Yup I had to manually wire in a piggyback and cut the standard loom. Then start from scratch with a fuel and ignition map. I really wish I had a s2 in the first place.

The s1 in standard power form is very underwhelming, and without a shift kit, the gear changes are quite slushy.

The s2 auto still needs a shift kit, but at least the power side is easier. I built my car over many years, but if I were to start again and do it all in one go, an s2 would be the better option.

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
FireFox-89 Enthusiast

FireFox-89

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Still can't find any series one Stagea's. Found some pictures online and used the 'DVLA Vehicle Check' feature and most are SORN which is annoying. They're probably sat unprotected rotting away on someones drive.

Hope I can find mine before they all vanish.

FireFox-89 Enthusiast

FireFox-89

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Whereabouts are you bud?

Dvla vehicle check won't show much tbh - most aren't registered as stageas. Seen them registered as skylines before. My v5 just says Nissan!

Normal service stuff really, OEM cambelt is good enough.

Brilliant, sounds good and also I'm in a town called Boston in Lincolnshire UK. Quite far away from Australia :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Borci88
      Borg Warner EFR Series Turbo's V 2.0

      By Borci88 · Posted

      Not a problem at all Lithium, I appreciate your help regardless. I've pulled a small part of a log where the target pressure was 28psi and it spiked to 36.4psi. I've only just begun using Data Log Viewer so if I'm sending this in the wrong format let me know.
    • Lithium
      Borg Warner EFR Series Turbo's V 2.0

      By Lithium · Posted

      Sorry had a bit of a week and haven't had heaps of time to follow this, so apologies if I've missed something - any chance of showing a log with the rpm, turbo speed, MAP, and wgdc all in one view? Definitely an "interesting" problem, and while it's definitely worth noting that there was a similar issue with the twins I'd not completely put all bets on the root cause being the same thing.  Keep an open mind, follow the data.
    • Borci88
      Borg Warner EFR Series Turbo's V 2.0

      By Borci88 · Posted

      I built this engine approximately 12 years ago so my own head (brain) is a little grey on the exact hardware in the RB head, however what I recall is. Stock RB25 NEO TURBO Intake Camshaft HKS 260 degree Exhaust Camshaft (R34 GTR) RB25 NEO Turbo Springs  I ported/removed the exhaust stud humps found in the RB25 head so theres less turbulence but it wasn't ported/polished properly, just a hump removal. I've attached two pictures of the before and after to illustrate.     The ECU gets its boost reference from the nipple on the rear of the head on the intake side, behind the fuel rail. The wastegate gets its boost reference from a nipple on the cooler pipe immediately after the comp cover.  Could a decent pressure drop across the intercooler cause the wastegate to be seeing a higher PSI than what the ECU is seeing, and thus it can't control it accurately and quick enough?   We ran a line to the actuator and watched it open and close using an air compressor, while we didn't have a gauge on the line to see when it was cracking open, it was opening smoothly.  I just removed the gate now and even though the documentation says you need to open it in a vice due to preload (which I did), there wasn't any preload on the cap, which is something we noticed straight out of the box as well when new. This silver cap internally is threaded to the actuator rod that runs out the bottom of the straightgate. Not sure how I'm supposed to get this spring out to be frank.. Potentially but everyone else doesn't appear to have to stop at 500kw because of 6boosts design.  I would, but I think I'm getting to that point where if I'm going to do the head and make another 100kw, then I'm going to need a fancy gearbox and quite a few other things and 10k becomes 20k becomes 30k within a few months. I'm not necessarily sold on the idea just yet that the head is restrictive at 4000rpm (and what.. 300kw?) and yet doesn't seem to be restrictive at 7000rpm when it's making 500kw, however I'm obviously not closing the door on that theory.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yeah - Half the problem is I know this sensor actually goes to 150C.. I'm pretty certain it is min of 11C. So still more data required I suppose. It's really quite hard to get the oil temp to 100+ then immediately pull over and take a reading before the temp drops. Annoyingly I suppose the range I really 'want' is likely 80 -> 120C. TBH the ecu can't really *do* anything with it, and the gauge itself is very visible... ...but you know how it is.
    • The Mafia
      Borg Warner EFR Series Turbo's V 2.0

      By The Mafia · Posted

      My EFR 8474 Black, made 800awhp on a roller dyno. at 25-26psi. E85. Shaft speed was around 106,000rpm 1.01 rear. The rear is maxed.  6 boost Turbosmart 60mm gate 3.5inch exhaust  Head is worked to the shithouse. Bain racing. VCam. 272 exhaust. RB28 - RB26 foundation.  You have an intake issue. Start getting proper data and I mean go back to the simple things.  - Pressure test your intake - Block off the Turbo BOV, you don't need it.  - Test pressure before and after your intercooler If your head is pretty stock, that is your issue. Especially if it is NA.  Take it off and spend $10k on it. 
×
×
  • Create New...