Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What kind of gains could I expect with cam gears and the stock cam?

Boost on a little sooner, more power/torque everywhere in the curve.

That was my experience with 34R stockers anyway.

You're best off leaving the stock cams in and using adjustable gears. With adjustable gears you can get some good gains, depending on the amount of time spent dialing in and setting up the cams to suit your tune. That way you'll get the best response.

If you weren't going to keep stock, Type R would be recommended next before Type B. As others have mentioned, you'd lose some low down response with Type B for top end power but in reality having low-mid range power is much better.

310kw on E85 seems slightly low for those turbos also. Unless the boost is down at a lower level then it would make sense. Adding cam gears and more boost (21psi area) you could get up to 350kw provided you don't have restrictions elsewhere.

There is a bit of information available on the Tomei Poncam range and the results obtained from them on a variety of setups.

How can type bs make a gtr with gt-ss drive Terribley down low

They already responsive as f**k ! I been in my mates before and after type bs noticed no difference down low

I should find out what gains he got with cams....

You should give Racepace a call and ask them what the think about type b's. I'll give you a hint, they got ripped out, sold off and went back to stock. What looks impressive on a dyno doesn't always show what's going on actually driving the car.

Thanks again everyone.its clear that aftermarket cams are not worth it on a 2.6 so cam gears have been ordered and I'll post the results when it's done

Stock cams/cam gears, -7s and E85 over here. 325kw with all the mid range you could want.

As Piggaz said, a dyno graph won't always show how the car drives.

I was making 320kw on 98 with:

-7's

Tomei Type B's

Tomei cam gears

Standard Dumps

Nitto bottom end

It's currently getting fixed up, and then put to E85. Don't know what ill get there....

Without naming names, From what my engine builder reckons RBs don't need massive cams

They make plenty of power and response on very low duration cams.

Most of the time the big duration cams have a pussy profile so that's why you often see the curve move a lot to the right on the graph.

People often forget its not just the cost of buying the cams, but the hidden cost of installing cams on an rb can be a shock too

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...