Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, I have just had a R34 RB25DE NEO 5 speed 11/1998 dropped off that has been rolled over and we're having trouble getting it to start, no dash lights and fuel pump not powering up. Have checked the fuses and earths. Any help would be much appriciated.

Kind regards,

Adrian

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/455887-r34-not-starting-after-roll-over/
Share on other sites

Climate control and CD player should have nothing to do with immobilizer etc. I think your going to need to get a multimeter out and actually have a go at finding the problem. It could be anything from a disconnected battery lead to a dodgy ignition barrel

You say the fuses arent blown, but is there actually power there? Is there power to the key switch? Is the battery ok?

To many variables here to diagnose over the internet

  • Like 1

Battery ?

Does it turn over at all?

Fark mang your just going to have to use your eyes and go through the basics

Multi meter. Everything power related from what you have said so far.

Immobiliser is good thinking. But get power working first.

Battery

Main Relays/Fuses - Cabin and engine bay

Ign

All looms

Earths & + wiring

Have gone over the basics it has power and turns over, have you guys had any experience with the immobilizers in the R34s?

Callen, If you have had experience with this, you are more then welcome to come and have a look? located in Bucasiaa

No real concern it would just be great to have it run before we pull it out. Figured someone off here may have run into this problem from it being rolled/in an accedent.

Edited by Taipan

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'll just leave this with, holy shit, those cars at work are awesome, and this will look wicked!
    • Could you modify this duct so instead it pushes the extra air through the radiator too and not down and out? For temps, I know it's not the greatest idea, but as a bit of a last resort, you could use a very intermittent misting spray onto the front of the coolers/rad. You don't want to be soaking them such that water is dripping off, but a small most on/off so that the water evaporates. That point of it constantly evaporating, rather than being soaked in water, will pull a LOT of heat out of the cooler. I'm literally thinking just the little mist sprayers for a garden from Bunnings. Being in a low humidity climate it will help even more! The other trick if you want to be ghetto is some shade cloth hung in the opening, and keep it wet. Pretty much now it's acting like an evap cooler on a house, but cooling the air you need to use to cool the radiator...   On a topic to think about too though, when air enters through the bumper, is it all nicely ducted from the edges of that opening back at a nice angle, or is it like most cars, and the edge of the opening just stops, and suddenly it's wayyy wider behind that? If it does the later, get it shrouded out at nice angles. When that opening changes too rapidly, it can actually cause a high pressure zone between the front bar and radiator, and limit air flow into that area, which means less air for cooling, as it effectively stalls the air, AND adds to drag...
    • Do you have any before and after photos? That's $200 just for the hydro blasting?
    • It doesn't look like there's a lot of options out there these days, and what's out there is performance oriented aftermarket stuff (with the GTR markup) I wonder if there are other cars with similar springs, after all its just a matter of length, diameter and stiffness. Alternatively, I did see coil spacers. Probably not the best option, but could be serviceable too.  
×
×
  • Create New...