Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts



If he can be trusted with this:

IMG_0731.thumb.jpg.03f55f80fd9af0ba928f5dd6e5a45b2a.jpg

IMG_0732.thumb.jpg.9593da70e4248aba38fae5f6fa6fb714.jpg

My shit box won't be an issue! ?[emoji23][emoji6]

I thought the same thing when I took my car to 1st repairer (did/specialised in mustangs and restorations) ended up doing such a botched job, all i can say is some who specialises in imports. Anyway if marc can vouch for em should be ok


Active Red would be more appropriate

Drivers side speaker box sorted.DSC_0250.JPGHey Dean. Was just wondering. Cadence amp does 2x100w @ 4 ohm. Or 2x150w @ 2ohm both in L+R stereo. Speakers are 200w rms. 2x10" dual voice coil 2 off. Should I hook them up at 2 ohm or 4 ohm?. Sealed boxes.

Drivers side speaker box sorted.DSC_0250.JPG.d68a8334c3000d8e1e97f83082671afd.JPGHey Dean. Was just wondering. Cadence amp does 2x100w @ 4 ohm. Or 2x150w @ 2ohm both in L+R stereo. Speakers are 200w rms. 2x10" dual voice coil 2 off. Should I hook them up at 2 ohm or 4 ohm?. Sealed boxes.

Individual L+R off amp not bridged?
5 minutes ago, Beyond Blue R33 said:


Individual L+R off amp not bridged?

Ud wanna run them over powered wouldnt ya? If ur speakers are 200wrms ul need a amp of atleast 200wrms to power it properly.

  • Like 1

So 2ohm at 150w? Not going Going to buy a new amp.

I do know what you mean though. Amps are mounted and rubber insulated got full size 16x205x55 spare in with false floor. Speakers are going left and right hand side of boot. DSC_0251.JPGDSC_0252.JPG

Drivers side speaker box sorted.DSC_0250.JPG.d68a8334c3000d8e1e97f83082671afd.JPGHey Dean. Was just wondering. Cadence amp does 2x100w @ 4 ohm. Or 2x150w @ 2ohm both in L+R stereo. Speakers are 200w rms. 2x10" dual voice coil 2 off. Should I hook them up at 2 ohm or 4 ohm?. Sealed boxes.


4 ohm will go all day. 2 ohm could hit thermal cut out if loud for long.

I'd start at 2 ohm and switch to 4 if it doesn't work well
  • Like 1


What resistance are the subs?

4 ohm?

4 ohm single voice coil. 2 ohm dual voice Coil. Easy to change out. Might start at single 4ohm for less load on the amp at 100w If not happy change to double 2ohm 150w from the amp. Rockford fosgate prime r/2 10" shallow dual 4ohm subwoofer. Sealed boxes will put more load on the amp so maybe start at 4ohm then switch up to 2ohm. Only really crank rock and metal when the boy is in the car. I'm quite happy with the RB soundtrack except for cruising at 3000rpm at 120kph. Just weekend jobbing for fun really to play with my new nail/staple gun. Plus full size spare and L+R separation. [emoji4]



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...