Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

23 minutes ago, Beyond Blue R33 said:


Has anyone seen the rising Sunday event at barbagello on the 4th? Or been to one before?

Cars n Coffee is this sunday at Kwinana... are they both on the same day?

 

i went to the first Rising Sunday. heaps of cars got stickered. was a good day but

Clearly you just don't appreciate how rare the Hyundai getz gtr is. It's a 1/1 worldwide. Will be highly collectable in the future.

If your not into collectable cars and like the getz tuner scene then this beast is for you! images%20(1).jpg

Never seen a bad boy like this before? It matches my swimming clothes!car-modification-fail-turbo.jpg.4c1bea07c03e73c563efd30492134a4a.jpg

Hey Trev I was looking up lifter issues on Sau and it had your posts solving the issue?! (r&d maniac) I've noticed a slight rattle in the exhaust cam p/s on no.6. I disconnected the coil pack at rattle revs. 2800-3200 and the rattle went away, phew no piston slap or gudgeon pin issues etc. Was wondering the fix for this without bagging my mate dave out.? Doesn't affect the performance at all and I's only in the specific rev range with the H.t. Lead disconnected? I changed the oil on Saturday and it runs sweet except for the noisey lifter on 6? At those r p.m.?

Hey Trev I was looking up lifter issues on Sau and it had your posts solving the issue?! (r&d maniac) I've noticed a slight rattle in the exhaust cam p/s on no.6. I disconnected the coil pack at rattle revs. 2800-3200 and the rattle went away, phew no piston slap or gudgeon pin issues etc. Was wondering the fix for this without bagging my mate dave out.? Doesn't affect the performance at all and I's only in the specific low rev range with the H.t. Lead disconnected it disappeared. I changed the oil on Saturday and it runs sweet except for the noisey lifter on 6? At those r p.m.?

I ran it hard on Saturday morning early on the old oil and it was noticeable at idle. Only noticeable at the 2800-3200 after the oil change? Would assume it only needs a new lifter? or clean (doubt it) and gapping not valve stem seal honing etc? Any advice?

I ran it hard on Saturday morning early on the old oil and it was noticeable at idle. Only noticeable at the 2800-3200 after the oil change? Would assume it only needs a new lifter? or clean (doubt it) and gapping not valve stem seal honing etc? Any advice?





Hey Trev I was looking up lifter issues on Sau and it had your posts solving the issue?! (r&d maniac) I've noticed a slight rattle in the exhaust cam p/s on no.6. I disconnected the coil pack at rattle revs. 2800-3200 and the rattle went away, phew no piston slap or gudgeon pin issues etc. Was wondering the fix for this without bagging my mate dave out.? Doesn't affect the performance at all and I's only in the specific rev range with the H.t. Lead disconnected? I changed the oil on Saturday and it runs sweet except for the noisey lifter on 6? At those r p.m.?

Can only pick up the rattle in 2nd gear under mild acceleration?
1 hour ago, Beyond Blue R33 said:


Hey Trev I was looking up lifter issues on Sau and it had your posts solving the issue?! (r&d maniac) I've noticed a slight rattle in the exhaust cam p/s on no.6. I disconnected the coil pack at rattle revs. 2800-3200 and the rattle went away, phew no piston slap or gudgeon pin issues etc. Was wondering the fix for this without bagging my mate dave out.? Doesn't affect the performance at all and I's only in the specific rev range with the H.t. Lead disconnected? I changed the oil on Saturday and it runs sweet except for the noisey lifter on 6? At those r p.m.?

i stripped and cleaned my lifters when i rebuilt the engine because i had a rattle for over 100,000Kms. 

 

ended up getting a different head and modified it and used the lifters that came from the new head. the rattle is still there but turned out to be an injector which doesnt affect performance so i havent replaced it yet but i might in the near future as im considering an injector upgrade to top feeds

 

  • Like 1
50 minutes ago, Beyond Blue R33 said:


I ran it hard on Saturday morning early on the old oil and it was noticeable at idle. Only noticeable at the 2800-3200 after the oil change? Would assume it only needs a new lifter? or clean (doubt it) and gapping not valve stem seal honing etc? Any advice?

how loud is it? 

 

not sure if you can use an oil flush to get the gunk out... they arent too bad to clean apart from having to get them out. there are also a couple different varieties on our engines. look the same externally but different sizing internally

  • Like 1
43 minutes ago, Beyond Blue R33 said:

Can only pick up the rattle in 2nd gear under mild acceleration?

 

 

 

 

sorry too hard to guess without looking. 

 

id imagine with more revs the oil pressure would prevent lifter noise so idle would be worse but thats purely an edumacated guess. 

  • Like 1



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...