Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I would've been down for that, but I haven't touched an electric guitar in about 2 years now.

These days I only really strum a few chords on my acoustic on the rare occasion. Full time work + cars = little time for music now.

  • Replies 100
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I actually bought a brand new ESP bass last year with the intent to play it. In 14 months, I have played it a grand total of 3 times I think :) Trying to sell it now... to fund car stuff.

Don't need one :)

Benefits of having a strat copy with a 5-way pickup selector and no humbuckers! On the 2nd and 4th positions most people can't tell my guitar from a recorded accoustic!

I reckon all the guitarists on here should have a solo/riff competition, where you record 15 seconds of sound and post it up. Don't know how judging would work though :S

No humbuckers eah... Custom made?

Is your Strat copy (Fender) USA, JAP or MEX made?

I would've been down for that, but I haven't touched an electric guitar in about 2 years now.

These days I only really strum a few chords on my acoustic on the rare occasion. Full time work + cars = little time for music now.

Your too busy chasing skirt :)

I actually bought a brand new ESP bass last year with the intent to play it. In 14 months, I have played it a grand total of 3 times I think :P Trying to sell it now... to fund car stuff.

lol, i'm in 2 bands and don't get to practice as much as i'd like... and i have a baby on the way in the next 4-5 weeks! i won't get a chance at all!

No humbuckers eah... Custom made?

Is your Strat copy (Fender) USA, JAP or MEX made?

Not sure where it was made, it's a Monterey Stage Series which I've had for about a decade and bought it new as one of those cheap guitar/amp packs. Nothing custom, just shitty single coils! Strats are setup for blues and jazz so that contributes to a better accoustic sound. I have Blue Steels on it, which are just the best strings IMO. Takes forever to fall out of tune and haven't busted an E string since. I've long held the belief if you can make a crappy instrument sound good then you must be half good hahaha.

I had a "Monterey Stage Series" once too, as my first electric :P Was pretty shocking to be honest.

I upgraded to my Schecter Omen-6 and the difference was amazing :P

It's still a fairly cheap guitar though.

My dream guitar was always an ESP F-400 FM.

LTD-F-400FM.jpg

Not sure where it was made, it's a Monterey Stage Series which I've had for about a decade and bought it new as one of those cheap guitar/amp packs. Nothing custom, just shitty single coils! Strats are setup for blues and jazz so that contributes to a better accoustic sound. I have Blue Steels on it, which are just the best strings IMO. Takes forever to fall out of tune and haven't busted an E string since. I've long held the belief if you can make a crappy instrument sound good then you must be half good hahaha.

Ah ok, single coil pic ups... I get it :P

Yeah your right, Fenders are very "Bright" sounding guitars. Perfect for the high Jazz and Blues solos.

I have been thought so many sets of strings, I have used Erin Ball, D'Addarios, Fender Bullets, Dean Markley, Yamaha and back to Erin Ball and D'Adarrios.

True if you can make a crappy instrument sound good, you must be doing something right. LOL!

But having top quality made guitar just feels a lot better. :P

^^Oh shiny pearl!

I see you got the whammy bar in... It is a different size then my Yamaha whammy bar, the Fenders diametre is thinner to screw in.

yeah that black pearl scratch plate was a pain in the butt to get... i wanted all genuine fender parts (except for the pickups)... that was a custom order from the US. the volume and tone knobs were a catalogue item and the whammy bar end and pickup selecter knob were also from fender in the US...

oh yeah, for any metal heads here, is anyone from here going to see arch enemy in november?

yeah that black pearl scratch plate was a pain in the butt to get... i wanted all genuine fender parts (except for the pickups)... that was a custom order from the US. the volume and tone knobs were a catalogue item and the whammy bar end and pickup selecter knob were also from fender in the US...

oh yeah, for any metal heads here, is anyone from here going to see arch enemy in november?

Yeah lead singer of Arch Enemy is hot as!

Not going, but.

I am going to August Burns Red + Parkway Drive and Cannibal Corpse.

  • 2 months later...
In addition I got an Epiphone arch top Emperor Joe Pass sig series... got this 2nd hand, still in good condition...

post-a230880-IMG-0309.JPG

Found out my guitar is made in one of Epiphone's Korean factory from pre-Chinese era... (year 2000)...

The later 2003-2004+ issue of the Emperor II are all made in China (QingDao factory), which I read from most people who tried them, the later quality are not as good as the korean ones... Even harder to find / more valuable are early 80s epiphone which were still made in Japan (Fuji / Tereda factories) which are hard to get these days...

Anyway, the action on this one is quite good, and since the previous owner 'polished out' the original gold finish, I'm ordering some replacement parts from US to restore the tailpiece, pickguard bracket all back to its original gold colour finish, and I've ordered some gold Grover tuner machine to upgrade those generic tuners, and a pair of Seymour Duncan gold SH-1 '59 pickups for that vintage 60s Jazz/blues tones...

Can't wait for the mods parts to arrive!

post-a230880-IMG-0309.JPG

Found out my guitar is made in one of Epiphone's Korean factory from pre-Chinese era... (year 2000)...

The later 2003-2004+ issue of the Emperor II are all made in China (QingDao factory), which I read from most people who tried them, the later quality are not as good as the korean ones... Even harder to find / more valuable are early 80s epiphone which were still made in Japan (Fuji / Tereda factories) which are hard to get these days...

Anyway, the action on this one is quite good, and since the previous owner 'polished out' the original gold finish, I'm ordering some replacement parts from US to restore the tailpiece, pickguard bracket all back to its original gold colour finish, and I've ordered some gold Grover tuner machine to upgrade those generic tuners, and a pair of Seymour Duncan gold SH-1 '59 pickups for that vintage 60s Jazz/blues tones...

Can't wait for the mods parts to arrive!

nice guitar... i started to hot rod my old epi but it's been sitting around for a while. grover tuners are really, really good! i have a set on my ESP-LTD... gotoh are also really, really good (the magnums are sick!)... and the '59 are a great pickup, i have one in my ESP horizon... is the tailpiece post width metric or imperial?

Finally had a reply, the bolt hole would match the guitar. the the replacement tailpiece was made in Korea and was used in Epiphone factories there...

I'm getting it as well with a replacement rosewood bridge. I think the previous owner had the current rosewood bridge notched too deep to mark the G string position, causing a little bit of fret buzz... and I don't want to raise the bridge as it will bring the action higher on the other strings as well with such a solid single piece bridge setup.

  • 2 weeks later...

I went to parkway/ABR, how good was it!!

I have been playing guitar for about 8-9 years. "sing" in the band im in now haha.

This is my band www.myspace.com/hollowpointhc. name change now, and new members. the stuff on there is over a year old. we jam flat out at kindred studios in footscray, will be back in the studio and playing live/touring again soon, so all SAU VIC guys should come for sure

I went to parkway/ABR, how good was it!!

I have been playing guitar for about 8-9 years. "sing" in the band im in now haha.

This is my band www.myspace.com/hollowpointhc. name change now, and new members. the stuff on there is over a year old. we jam flat out at kindred studios in footscray, will be back in the studio and playing live/touring again soon, so all SAU VIC guys should come for sure

i saw parkway a year or so ago... very, very good live...

your band sounds quite good... nice and heavy... i used to practice at kindred like most rehersal rooms it's a s**t hole... i can't talk though, my band practices at what used to be danes in brunswick...

I went to parkway/ABR, how good was it!!

I have been playing guitar for about 8-9 years. "sing" in the band im in now haha.

This is my band www.myspace.com/hollowpointhc. name change now, and new members. the stuff on there is over a year old. we jam flat out at kindred studios in footscray, will be back in the studio and playing live/touring again soon, so all SAU VIC guys should come for sure

Good solid voice you got for the grows and screams.

i saw parkway a year or so ago... very, very good live...

your band sounds quite good... nice and heavy... i used to practice at kindred like most rehersal rooms it's a s**t hole... i can't talk though, my band practices at what used to be danes in brunswick...

Ah yes the Dane Centre in Brunswick... I remember that.

It was a pretty cool place.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm looking for some real world experiences/feed back from anyone who has personally ran a EFR7670 with a 1.05 exhaust housing or a .83 I'm leaning towards the .83 because its a street car used mostly for spirited driving in the canyons roads. I"m not looking for big numbers on paper. I want a responsive powerband that will be very linear to 8000 rpm. I dont mind if power remains somewhat flat but dont want power to drop off on top. The turbo I've purchased is a 1.05, although the mounting flange T3 vs T4 and internal vs external waste gates are different on both housings, I not concern about swapping parts or making fabrication mods to get what I want. Based on some of the research I've done with chat gpt, the 1.05 housing seems to be the way to go with slightly more lag and future proofing for more mods but recommends .83 for best response/street car setup. AI doesn't have the same emotions as real people driving a GTR so I think you guys will be able to give me better feed back 😀   
    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
×
×
  • Create New...