Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just finished putting an rb30det into my skyline and have a couple of questions.

1. What is ideal running temp ? Mine seems to want to sit at the 100 degree mark it has a large alloy radiator and twin thermos and Nissan thermostat, 100 just seems a bit hot to me,

2. Does the hose for the aacv have to be run in between throttle body and air flow meter ? Or can it run from atmosphere ( with a filter) ?

3. I found I have a leaky welch plug, just a slow leak a drop every now and again, it is in an awkward spot behind an engine mount, will this get worse and worse over time ? Or can I use a sealant to fix this issue ?

4. I have read a lot about bov, and am a it confused some people say it is a must have item and other say it is not needed. Will it harm my turbo if I am not running a Bov if it is only running low boost pressure ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456702-ideal-temperature/
Share on other sites

1. Standard RB30 thermostat is 82.6deg if I remember correctly. Should sit around that happily. I suggest doing a proper bleed of the coolant system before anything else.

2. AACV hose goes anywhere between before the throttle body and air filter. Most people run it immediately before the TB.

4. There is no requirement to run a BOV. Personally I have never run one in my 5 years of ownership and none of my mates have ever run them.

1. 100 is much too hot. It should sit arounc 85C operating temp.

2. if you run an airflow meter then you must have the AACV taking air after the airflow meter (so the air usage gets measured... otherwise the car won't idle). if you run a MAP based ECU (ie aftermarket) then you could atmosphere + filter it.. but then you need an extra filter etc.. I don't see the point personally.

3. pretty unlikely it'll get better on its own. you may be able to tack it up with some sealant. I once sealed the turbo water line behind the block by dripping some superglue on it. that held until I had time to get in there and replace the hose properly.

4. nobody has ever had a turbo die from not running a BOV. I ran a bovless skyline for several years pushing 14psi no problems.

Thanks, what is best way to bleed cooling system ? I don't have bleed valve as I have a Freddiy plenum, I read that you can just raise the front of the car so that the radiator is highest point of cooling system and just run it with the cap off ?

sugestions as above are good. Also there is often a fitting with a warning label that says "do not open when hot" near the front of the inlet manifold (ie at the top of the inlet manifold, closest to the radiator). This is the highest point in the cooling system and can also be used for bleeding. To bleed it you need the top half of a 2L coke bottle jammed in the radiator neck with a bit of gaffa tape around it to provide a seal of sorts. you need an inch or two of water above the radiator cap level to effectively bleed the system.

sugestions as above are good. Also there is often a fitting with a warning label that says "do not open when hot" near the front of the inlet manifold (ie at the top of the inlet manifold, closest to the radiator). This is the highest point in the cooling system and can also be used for bleeding. To bleed it you need the top half of a 2L coke bottle jammed in the radiator neck with a bit of gaffa tape around it to provide a seal of sorts. you need an inch or two of water above the radiator cap level to effectively bleed the system.

In the 32 GTR i get full coolant out the bleeder by just topping up the radiator.

BOVs are designed to vent off the air that would otherwise slow the turbo down after the throttles shut. So if you have one you should produce boost more quickly after gear changes.

BOVs are designed to vent off the air that would otherwise slow the turbo down after the throttles shut. So if you have one you should produce boost more quickly after gear changes.

Yes, if you have a correctly set up plumb-back on a MAF-based engine then it may help throttle response as opposed to BOVless. (remove plumb-back requirement for MAP-based). And if you are running REALLY high boost pressure then BOVless may accelerate turbo bearing wear.

There is also some thought towards keeping pressure inside the intercooler + piping. The rotating assembly in a turbo is quite light, and rather than worrying about slowing it down you can rely on maintaining a bank of pressurised air so that when the throttle opens you have a volume of pressurised air available that can go straight into the engine, produce power, and produce a lot of exhaust gas to spin the turbo up again. With a BOV that is venting all pressurised air, you may have a faster turbine speed but when the throttle opens you have no pressure and the turbo has to build pressure in the intercooler + piping all over again.

It would probably be fairly straightforward to measure the result by logging TPS and MAP, come to think of it.. I may play with it sometime in the future to see what works better :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have no hard data to report, but I have to say, having driven it to work and back all week, mostly on wet roads (and therefore mostly not able to contemplate anything too outrageous anywhere)..... it is real good. I turned the boost controller on, with duty cycle set to 10% (which may not be enough to actually increase the boost), and the start boost set to 15 psi. That should keep the gate unpressurised until at least 15 psi. And rolling at 80 in 5th, which is <2k rpm, going to WOT sees the MAP go +ve even before it crosses 2k and it has >5 psi by the time it hits 90 km/h. That's still <<2.5k rpm, so I think it's actually doing really well. Because of all the not-quite-ideal things that have been in place since the turbo first went on, it felt laggy. It's actually not. The response appears to be as good as you could hope for with a highflow.
    • Or just put in a 1JZ, and sell me the NEO head 😎
    • Oh, it's been done. You just run a wire out there and back. But they have been known to do coolant temp sensors, MAP sensors, etc. They're not silly (at Regency Park) and know what's what with all the different cars.
    • Please ignore I found the right way of installing it thanks
    • There are advantages, and disadvantages to remapping the factory.   The factory runs billions of different maps, to account for sooooo many variables, especially when you bring in things like constantly variable cams etc. By remapping all those maps appropriately, you can get the car to drive so damn nicely, and very much so like it does from the factory. This means it can utilise a LOT of weird things in the maps, to alter how it drives in situations like cruise on a freeway, and how that will get your fuel economy right down.   I haven't seen an aftermarket ECU that truly has THAT MANY adjustable parameters. EG, the VAG ECUs are somewhere around 2,000 different tables for it to work out what to do at any one point in time. So for a vehicle being daily driven etc, I see this as a great advantage, but it does mean spending a bit more time, and with a tuner who really knows that ECU.   On the flip side, an aftermarket ECU, in something like a weekender, or a proper race car, torque based tuning IMO doesn't make that much sense. In those scenarios you're not out there hunting down stuff like "the best way to minimise fuel usage at minor power so that we can go from 8L/100km to 7.3L/100km. You're more worried about it being ready to make as much freaking power as possible when you step back on the loud pedal as you come out of turn 2, not waiting the extra 100ms for all the cams to adjust etc. So in this scenario, realistically you tune the motor to make power, based on the load. People will then play with things like throttle response, and drive by wire mapping to get it more "driveable".   Funnily enough, I was watching something Finnegans Garage, and he has a huge blown Hemi in a 9 second 1955 Chev that is road registered. To make it more driveable on the road recently, they started testing blocking up the intake with kids footballs, to effectively reduce air flow when they're on the road, and make the throttle less touchy and more driveable. Plus some other weird shit the yankee aftermarket ECUs do. Made me think of Kinks R34...
×
×
  • Create New...