Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

SHED CLEAN OUT!!! Pics attached!

I sold my R32 over a year ago and have just cleared out my shed of all the parts I 'planned' to put on it but never did as i'm just too damn lazy. I can post smaller items very cheap but larger ones will be pick-up or buyer can arrange shipping.

For Sale:

* RARE Power FC APEXi R32 RB20 AP Engineering WITH Hand Controller - Never Used only taken out of box. Factory map installed to use straight from box, plug and play.

$1200

* Greddy style Bodykit. Front and Rear bar. Already prepped for painting from shop (some slight scratches from storage)

$800

* R32 GTS-t / GTS4 Carbon Fiber Hood. Seibon TT style. Never fitted only a few very light scuffs from storage which would probably buff off easily.

$800

* Blitz SBC i-color Boost Controller Spec S in silver. Never fitted only opened box.

$750

* Lambo Door Kit. Direct bolt-on kit for R32. Never fitted only opened box. RRP: $1299

$900

* SARD adjustable fuel pressure regulator in silver. Never fitted. Lowest price on ebay $42.50

$40

**AUTOMETER PACKAGE** ALL ITEMS AS NEW, NEVER FITTED.

* Autometer Ultra-Lite II 5" Shift Light Tachometer #4999. Lowest price on ebay = $351.51

* Autometer Ultra-Lite Pro Comp 2-5/8" Water Temp Gauge #4437. Lowest price on ebay = $112.36

* Autometer Ultra-Lite Pro Comp 2-5/8" Boost Vacuum Gauge #4401. Lowest price on ebay = $120.00 (Not in original box as it was thrown away)

* Autometer Ultra-Lite Pro Comp 2-5/8" Oil Pressure Gauge #4427. Lowest price on ebay = $136.75

* Autometer Chrome Mounting Cup for 2-5/8" Gauges #3201. Lowest price on ebay = $55.00

* Autometer Chrome Mounting Cup for 2-5/8" Gauges #3201. Lowest price on ebay = $55.00

* Autometer Chrome Mounting Cup for 2-5/8" Gauges #3203. Lowest price on ebay = $55.00 (boost gauge mounting cup)

LOWEST COLLECTIVE PRICE ON EBAY = $885.62

PACKAGE PRICE ONLY = $750.00

I work around the country a lot so I may or may not be able to post things straight away. The best way to contact me is via mobile 0434603426.

All items located in the Maitland/Newcastle area. Free pick-up or cheap postage on smaller items. Large items pick-up only or buyer arranges postage.

Cheers,

Autometer Package.JPG

boost controller.JPG

CF Hood1.JPG

CF Hood2.JPG

Frontbar scratches.JPG

Frontbar1.JPG

Frontbar2.JPG

Frontbar3.JPG

Lambo door kitR32.JPG

Power FC RB20.JPG

Rearbar1.JPG

Rearbar2.JPG

Rearbar3.JPG

Sard Fuel Regulator.JPG

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...