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Timing Issues

steeldawg_69
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steeldawg_69 Contributor

steeldawg_69

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Update......turns out I have a very bad maf, I can't even get the injectors to pulse when it is plugged in so I'm trying to source one. I tried to resolder the pins but still not working, it's safe to say it's toast. I also received the correct cas grommet, so I'll see what the timing is when I get the replacement maf.

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KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

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Update......turns out I have a very bad maf, I can't even get the injectors to pulse when it is plugged in so I'm trying to source one. I tried to resolder the pins but still not working, it's safe to say it's toast. I also received the correct cas grommet, so I'll see what the timing is when I get the replacement maf.

Have you tried cleaning the element with carb or brake cleaner?

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  • 3 weeks later...
steeldawg_69 Contributor

steeldawg_69

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Update....Not sure how much of a progress this is if any at all. I bought two brand new mafs, took out the wire loom, checked and double checked every pinout, every sensor checked and cleaned as was necessary, redid mechanical timing (again). I also cleaned and put back the stock injectors in the car. The car starts and idles but as soon as I blip the gas it shuts off, the timing is 5 (yes 5) degrees btdc with the cas fully adjusted, this is with the front cover on, I'm sure if I were to the the front cover off again I would get about 15 btdc. This what I HAVEN'T done yet, a) compression test b) full the car with gasoline and light it. Believe me I'm close to the latter. The car ran great before I spun bearings and that was 4 years ago, I took my time with this rebuild so it would be right, smh. I'm out of ideas.

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boostn0199 Grand Master

boostn0199

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Update....Not sure how much of a progress this is if any at all. I bought two brand new mafs, took out the wire loom, checked and double checked every pinout, every sensor checked and cleaned as was necessary, redid mechanical timing (again). I also cleaned and put back the stock injectors in the car. The car starts and idles but as soon as I blip the gas it shuts off, the timing is 5 (yes 5) degrees btdc with the cas fully adjusted, this is with the front cover on, I'm sure if I were to the the front cover off again I would get about 15 btdc. This what I HAVEN'T done yet, a) compression test b) full the car with gasoline and light it. Believe me I'm close to the latter. The car ran great before I spun bearings and that was 4 years ago, I took my time with this rebuild so it would be right, smh. I'm out of ideas.

If your cam gear bolts made contact with the cas then the cas might be ruined they are sensitive and wont take much to ruin them thats another thing to take care of, Ive had a similar issue when I forgot to run washers with no timing cover and exhuast cam bolts were rubbing cas car would run for few min then die timing was off and I had to fully turn cas to even start it.

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steeldawg_69 Contributor

steeldawg_69

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Well turns out that the ignitor took a crap, not sure if this was the reason I was having the car erratically shut down at times after idling for a few minutes or if it was causing me to have the above mention timing problems, there was no spark generated on number one cylinder which has me scratching my head as I checked for this as late as last week and it was sparking like it should. I borrowed a friend's ignitor just to make sure. I'll get one and I'll let you guys know what happens with the timing. I still think there is something else wrong but I'll know soon enough.

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  • 4 weeks later...
steeldawg_69 Contributor

steeldawg_69

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Well it's been 2 months to the day since I started this thread and while some issues have been resolved the core problem still remains with me, in addition to that there is this sound I'm starting to get especially when the engine warms up. I've been told it's the timing belt too tight, I have since backed off the tension and still I'm hearing this sound. I have installed a greddy timing belt and I have tomei adjustable cam gears. I will try to upload a video clip with the sound. The timing is at 20 deg BTDC but only when I have the cas all the way adjusted. Mechanical timing is spot on (checked over 10 times), tried two stock ecus and still I have the same issue with timing.

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  • 2 weeks later...
steeldawg_69 Contributor

steeldawg_69

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It turns out that it wasn't the belts, the noise I was able to trace to around the exhaust side of the head. I took the cams out and discovered that the oil orifice under the E1 cam cap was clogged, so I cleaned and unclogged the same, put everything back together and I have no more noise. My original timing issue remains though but I'll seek help elsewhere. Thanks to you and everyone else who took the time out to reply and give suggestions, they were all appreciated. I'll post the picture of what I saw when I removed the cams.

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steeldawg_69 Contributor

steeldawg_69

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Solved........I'm posting my findings as it relates to my original problem which was the cas was fully anticlockwise and my timing was 10-13 deg btdc. It turns out that the ignitor pack's BODY has to be grounded. This is especially for guys who do swaps. By chance I grounded mine and when I started the car and checked the timing it read like 35 deg btdc, I was able to rotate the cas clockwise and set the timing to 20 deg btdc. Hope this helps someone.

post-26402-0-88806500-1442619092_thumb.jpg

Edited by steeldawg_69
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