Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

New to SAU. Now I know this has been talked about over and over and over again with not much success I might add, but I personally have my very own, fully operating English unit, with Australian maps and the whole 9 yards, and for cheaper then you think.

The guys that helped me out are in Sydney.

They worked on my v36 skyline 2007 model which I was that no one could add Australian maps to my model let alone a full English conversion. The guy who did it is a genius. Any questions guys please post below also please see pictures below of the finished product

post-140301-14365648769904_thumb.jpgpost-140301-14365648998208_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/458145-v36g37-full-english-conversion/
Share on other sites

@Ben C34 yeah bro I agree, they are only a sticker, as far as I am aware there aren't any actual English buttons for the rh drive v36's because the American g37 are obviously back to front, I just ended up pulling the stickers off, honestly I it maybe took me a couple of days to figure out what all the buttons did

  • Like 1

Ok so anything from 2006-2009 will be $3500 and anything from 2010-current will be $2500. The only reason for this is because the wiring harnesses are different and a few other bits and pieces that need to be moved around which take almost triple the time then the later models thus the priced difference in labour

Ok so anything from 2006-2009 will be $3500 and anything from 2010-current will be $2500. The only reason for this is because the wiring harnesses are different and a few other bits and pieces that need to be moved around which take almost triple the time then the later models thus the priced difference in labour

So do you change the 2006-2009 hardware to 2010+ hardware with USB support?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...