Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

Car is running rich and not smooth (acceleration, hesitation etc). I am thinking it's the o2 sensors.

My car is a r34 gtr and it currently has a power fc installed and tuned recently.

First question, when dyno tuning, do the tuners take into account the o2 sensors?

I decided to disconnect both o2 sensors and went for a drive, it feels perfect!

Second question, driving without o2 sensors connected, is it bad for the engine? (my car is running rich with the sensors connected anyway, i dont have any way to check air fuel ratios)

Thirdly, can I conclude that the o2 sensors are faulty?

Finally, I want to replace my o2 sensors anyway... I know I need the zirconia ones. Both sensors are they same right? Just different plugs? (One square, one oval?) Can someone please point me to a link or a place to buy a pair of them?

Thanks alot guys!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/458174-r34-gtr-o2-sensor-problem/
Share on other sites

You should do some more searching as all those answers can be solved pretty quickly but I can summarize I guess.

1. You have a PowerFC so you should get ahold of the FAQ guide and you can actually go through the menu and check to see if your O2 senors are working from a Hand Controller. When Dyno Tuning, the sensors are either turned on or off basically as they are set to open or closed loop. When they are on they just trim fuel on cruise loads to increase fuel efficiency basically. Research some more if you want to learn more. If your tuner is good you can just turn them off and tune with the sensors and get the results you want anyway.

2. You can test oxygen sensors to see if they are faulty with a multimeter, if you get a very small voltage they are not working, forget what the actual range is. Search for how what values to look for a what wires (of the 3) to check.

3. You need the correct sensors for your GTR, which if it isn't a 32, you use zirconia ones. The 32 ones use a different composite and they don't work for the 33/34. Look up Kudos motorsport as they sell OEM senors. Could source elsewhere from Japan cheaper if you are keen. I wouldn't bother replacing them unless they are actually not working though. Do the test first.

4. Your car should be running rich (not excessive though) so if anything not having an O2 sensor would just make your fuel efficiency worse if it hasn't been compensated for by the tuner and you unplug the sensor. You might get fault codes and other stuff appear but there shouldn't be any real problems as far as I know.

5. Get a wide band for your car so you can measure and read AFR values while driving if you want. Very handy for tuning and detecting fuel issues that may occur. The PowerFC Hand Controller is very useful if you know how to use and read off it. Wouldn't suggest making any changes as they are only temporary from the controller anyway, but good to understand what you can monitor and see in case you have any problems that come up.

In short, you can just ask your tuner if he has it set to closed/open loop or how he set the tune up as he should know. Liked stated in the dot points, the car should run rich but not to a ridiculous point. If you have concerns after fixing/checking O2 sensors raise it with your tuner maybe.

Edited by breaker1845

Thanks for that! Haven't had the chance to talk to my tuner yet...

The thing is with the o2 sensors connected.. it is running excessively rich, as in... 250km a full tank on a r34 gtr.

WITHOUT the o2 sensors connected, it is running fine.. and I can see an improvement in millage already. (Haven't finish the tank yet)

I know that running rich is somewhat fine, I just don't want it to run lean.

Think what I'm really asking is.. can I just run my car with the o2 sensors disconnected till I can find new o2 sensors as a temporary fix?

If it really is your O2 sensor, you can disable it via power fc hand controller anyway without having to physically unplug it

Some people here don't run O2 sensors including myself provided your tuner has done a good job.

My understanding is that closed loop is only applied during cruising and idle after car warms up, so it shouldn't affect your car too much if you disable it, unless your tune is really off in the cruising cells, which is unlikely but then again no one can confirm that except for your tuner

Check your PowerFC first to see if they are even switched on because if they aren't, unplugging them shouldn't do anything.

Also poor fuel consumption may not just be O2 sensors, other components can affect that too. But you did say you had some issues with hesitation and such that you believe is cleared once you disable the oxygen sensors.

If you have time, discussing with your tuner about your level of satisfaction or what you have discovered about the tune may also help if it was recently done.

You won't run lean disconnecting the o2 sensors either if that is your concern. You can order new sensors if you want from Kudos and they usually arrive at your door within a few days.

If the sensors are buggered (you can check readings from PowerFC or manually) then effectively if they are on and you disconnect them it would be beneficial, which I suspect could be your case.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Front-NTK-OXYGEN-O2-SENSOR-NISSAN-R33-R34-GTR-RB26DETT-lambda-oxy-cyl-4-6-/111455121782?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item19f33e3176

Can someone please confirm that these are the sensors I need?

Front and rear sensors are the same but different plug design.

I need to order two of them, however because of the plug design, I have to cut and connect to existing plugs?

Thanks guys. Once I get a response, I'll order them right away.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Front-NTK-OXYGEN-O2-SENSOR-NISSAN-R33-R34-GTR-RB26DETT-lambda-oxy-cyl-4-6-/111455121782?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item19f33e3176

Can someone please confirm that these are the sensors I need?

Front and rear sensors are the same but different plug design.

I need to order two of them, however because of the plug design, I have to cut and connect to existing plugs?

Thanks guys. Once I get a response, I'll order them right away.

Check with your tuner first. When my Link was installed the O2 sensor was removed as the ECU takes care of the idle and cruise. You may not need to spend the money.

Never used O2s, only had them there to keep the Poleeece happy.

A decent tuner will tune better than what the O2 will provide in terms of "trim" etc. So go back and talk to them. Don't go spending money if you don't need it, and really, you shouldn't.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey y'all! I'm curious about how y'all go about widebodying your cars. I noticed that when running a square setup, my front wheels are a bit more tucked in than my rear wheels. Not by much, maybe 5-10mm. This leads me to wonder - when I widebody, should I use narrower front flares and wider rear flares? I found a set of 40mm rear flares that I really like, and was thinking of pairing them with some 18mm front flares, but I don't want the car to look strange. How have others done this? Note, I'm in a sedan. Thanks!
    • And if it was anything other than an auto tranny part, it might be a problem. But seeing as all auto trannies belong in the recycling bin, it's fine.
    • I have an R32 Fenix rad. It is good.
    • All the schemas I can see, indicate your typical setup of ATF 'cooler' (read: heat exchanger) in the bottom radiator tank..ie; https://nissan.epc-data.com/stagea/wgnc34/5413-rb25det/engine/214/ ...but I can prattle on a bit here. These trannies have a thermistor in the sump ~ the TCU reads this and 1. bumps the line pressure up when the ATF is 'cold' and 2. prevents the TC lockup clutch from operating, until the ATF comes up to minimum operating temp (keeps the ATF 'churning' through the TC so it heats up quicker) -- trigger point is around 55C. In these conditions, the engine coolant temperature rises faster than the ATF temperature, and also helps heat the ATF up, which is why it's best to think of the in radiator tank setup as a heat exchanger ; the heat can flow in both directions... ...with these trannies, the 'hot' ATF comes out the front banjo bolt, flows through the cooler/heat exchanger, and returns to the box  via the rear banjo bolt. This gets a mention, due to the wildly different opinions wrt running auto trans fluid coolers ~ do you bypass the in radiator tank altogether, or put the cooler inline with the in radiator tank system...and then, do you put the additional cooler before of after the in radiator tank system?... ....fact is the nominal engine operating temp (roughly 75C), happens to be the ideal temperature for the ATF used in these trannies as well (no surprises there), so for the in radiator tank system to actually 'cool' the ATF, the ATF temp has to be hotter than that...lets say 100C -- you've got 25C of 'excess' heat, (slowly) pumping into the 75C coolant. This part of the equation changes drastically, when you've got 100C ATF flowing through an air cooled radiator ; you can move a lot more excess heat, faster ~ it is possible to cool the ATF 'too much' as it were...(climate matters a lot)... ...in an 'ideal' setup, what you're really trying to control here, is flash heating of the ATF, primarily produced by the TC interface. In a perfect world, wrt auto trans oil cooling, you want a dedicated trans cooler with builtin thermostatic valving - they exist. These should be run inline and before the in radiator tank system ~ when 'cold' the valving bypasses the fin stack, allowing the ATF to flow direct to the in radiator tank heat exchanger, so it works 'as intended' with helping heat the ATF up. When 'hot' (iirc it was 50C threshold), the valving shuts forcing the ATF through the cooler fin stack, and onto the in radiator tank heat exchanger...and you sort of think of it as a 'thermal conditioner' of sorts...ie; if you did cool your ATF down to 65C, the coolant will add a little heat, otherwise it works as intended... ...the 'hot' ATF coming from the front bango bolt, is instantiated from the TC when in use, so all/any flash heated oil, flows to the fluid-to-air cooler first, and because of the greater heat differential, you can get rid of this heat fast. Just how big (BTU/h) this cooler needs to be to effectively dissipate this TC flash heat, is the charm...too many variables to discuss here, but I just wanted to point out the nitty-gritty of automatic trans fluid coolers ~ they're a different beastie to what most ppl think of when considering an 'oil cooler'... /3.5cents   
    • Been a busy but productive day. Axle and hubs acquired. All fitted up after a bit of modifying. Need to sort out wider mudguards and running light reflector covers but other than that the trailer is gooood to go !!
×
×
  • Create New...