Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys.

I'm wondering whether anyone knows where to find a replacement prop shaft cv boot for my car. I can't find any information anywhere and I don't know whether there is a compatible part from another make/model that I can replace it with.

I'd like to avoid going to Nissan if it is possible because they want crack prices for any spare parts, and I'm broke because of this car.

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/458955-gtr-prop-shaft-cv-boot-replacement/
Share on other sites

I presume you're talking about the front shafts?

Sorry to say it mate but genuine only. There are some very ordinary alternatives but they're exactly that, very f**king ordinary.

There is a very good reason your car most likely has the very first boot that was ever put on it from new, the genuine boots are brilliant quality. The rubber is really high quality and twice as thick as the aftermarket replacements. The genuine boots nearly stay there without clamps, the aftermarket nearly don't stay there with clamps!

Same deal with engine coolant hoses, go genuine as they last 20 years!

What Paul linked, you can buy the boot replacement kits from Kudos at that price for your CV shafts. Best to do inner/outer if the other one looks suspect as well.

You could also try your local power steering and CV shaft shop. I source genuine through mine and it's much cheaper.

Alternative is to use Nissan Part Numbers and get the items from Japan at a cheap price but wait like 3 weeks.

I presume you're talking about the front shafts?

Sorry to say it mate but genuine only. There are some very ordinary alternatives but they're exactly that, very f**king ordinary.

There is a very good reason your car most likely has the very first boot that was ever put on it from new, the genuine boots are brilliant quality. The rubber is really high quality and twice as thick as the aftermarket replacements. The genuine boots nearly stay there without clamps, the aftermarket nearly don't stay there with clamps!

Same deal with engine coolant hoses, go genuine as they last 20 years!

in regards to the coolant hoses why do people use silicone all the time is it just because it's cheaper everyone who has spoke to me has sworn by silicon and says it's better but I'm not sold on the idea.

I actually want original rubber looking items

I must admit I bought a full silicone kit but then thought stuff that, I can't see the silicone lasting 20 odd years so I'll stick with genuine. Cost a f'ing bomb for a whole set of genuine hoses but hopefully it was worth it.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...