Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Also i just remembered now that when i was doing the boost leak test, @10psi oil dipstick popped out and released all the pressure which seems bit odd on such low pressure.

Forgot to take a picture but here's a picture from Google how i did the pressure test:

Getting blow by on the rings. If motor was cold then could be nothing. You'd have to comp test a warm motor to see though.

Thanks for replying.

Engine was warm when i did it. Getting a compression tester from ebay but i hope you're wrong mate, wouldn't want to pull motor apart at the moment.

Edited by GhostK

Get a leak down tester and check it properly.

DO NOT by a ebay leak down tester...i did and spent a whole evening modding it to work properly.

They are suppose to have a 1mm orifice to work correctly, the ebay one didn't and i had to make one to get the right readings.

At the moment i just bought the compression tester but you're right, none of the leak testers on ebay doesn't seem to have orifice on. Did you filled the middle pipe with epoxy or something and drilled the 1mm hole through ?

Removed the inlet hose, cut a thread into the passage, drilled a 1mm hole in a grub screw and loctited it in.

I also pissed off the % gauge and used a normal 100Psi gauge.

95Psi reading when its set at 100Psi translates to 5% leak down

If your compressor wont go to 100Psi, do the test at 50Psi and double the resulting pressure decrease to calculate the true percentage.

So if you test at 50 PSI and the gauge reads 45Psi, your 5Psi drop means a 10% leak down.

Righto, thanks.

Compression test should show if there is something dodgy going on and then i would have to rebuild the engine anyway but if it doesn't I'll get a leak down tester.

Yeah i know it's me again....

Anyway, got the compression tester today and here's why I've been getting mashed by Fords lately.

Cold, dry test

1) 135 psi

2) 50 psi

3) 150 psi

4) 140 psi

5) 135 psi

6) 135 psi

Cold, wet (teaspoon of oil) test

1) 168 psi

2) 90 psi

3) 200 psi

4) 180 psi

5) 178 psi

6) 178 psi

Not sure if to go and buy a carton of bundy or start pulling the motor apart... on a side of the street coz don't have a garage or not even enough room in a yard for a car.

I reckon it's too much of a difference between cyl 3 and all the others too.

If i already have to do the job i might as well get a whole rod and pistons kit, just don't know yet what size to take as that engine was already swapped with original one 2 years ago and not sure if any internal work was done back then or no.

I've got 3 or 4 used OEM pistons (had at least 2 with broken ringlands, would have to check the rest) if you want a cheap option. Also have a brand new set of OEM rings in stock size - bought then decided to buy forged pistons.

Thanks heaps mate, i just lost my long term job today so everything is going pretty bad for me lately...

You wanna pm me the price you would take for the pistons/rings you have there ?

  • 1 month later...

Been exactly month now since last post, finally i got a house with a good size yard so i pulled the motor apart.

Cylinder 2 piston that gave me 50psi (dry)

post-140925-0-74269100-1444469491_thumb.jpg

post-140925-0-61054600-1444469510_thumb.jpg

If i started taking the rings off Cyl 1 and 6 piston ringlands gave up too.

post-140925-0-44310000-1444469530_thumb.jpg

Luckily I got 3 spare OEM used pistons witch gives me a good set of 6 all together + new OEM ring set.

But I'm bit concerned now if i'm already spending that much money to freshen up the head and the block(head is already in engineering shop) and finally decide to aim 250-300rwkw I might end up with another broken ringland ?

So you're now in the same position we were earlier in the year - 2 pistons with cracked ringlands, motor in bits, how far to go (how much to spend). We bought oversize forged pistons and had the block bored to suit, but it added close to $1500 to the build cost - the bores had already been honed to refit the stock pistons and had to go back in for the rebore. This was why I had a new set of OEM rings. It will be more a financial decision than anything. Not sure if your mentioned earlier in the thread, but what are you using the car for? Ours is a track car so spends a lot of time working hard - this is what pushed us towards forged pistons.

It's just gonna be a street car, no track days whatsoever.

What caused these broken ringlands I reckon was a very bad tune in bad hands of previous owners. If i got that car it had a hole in a pod filter, O2 sensor not connected, different spark plugs in every cylinder, very low engine oil + very dirty oil, blocked breather hoses, vacuum leaks, thermostat drilled through so engine never ever warmed up etc etc.

So IF i decide to put it back together with these old pistons hopefully i find a good tuner(hard to find up here) after installing power FC and it SHOULD last but yeah...

Also depends what the bloke in engineering shop reckons next week when i show him the bottom part of that motor.

Oh and by the way the pistons i got from you went clean in heavy duty degreaser in 20 minutes. :wave:

In a meanwhile, the pistons from my engine been soaking for 12 hours and only the sides are clean...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
    • Correct. Um. I dunno. I haven't cared enough about the way that the NA cars work to know for sure. But..... The 33/34 turbo manual cars have an electronic speed sensor in the gearbox that outputs a +/- (ie, sawtooth AC) voltage signal. That is connected to the speedo. The speedo then outputs a 0-5v square wave (ie, PWM) signal that the ECU (and any other CU on the bus) sees. The speed sensor is NOT directly connected to the ECU. So here's the problem. Your new ECU expects to see the PWM signal, but must somehow be getting a direct signal from the diff speed sensor. Which would suggest that the wiring of the NA car is not the same as the turbo cars. I think you will need to spend some time with (hopefully the wiring diagram for the car) and a multimeter to see what is connected to what. Then, presuming I am correct**, you would then want to separate the ECU speed signal input from the rest of the car's wiring, and probably either buy a speed signal converter, or build one using an arduino (or similar). That would take in the speed sensor signal and output a scaled (and suitably rearranged) signal for the ECU. ** We shouldn't presume that I am correct here, because there might be something else crazy going on. I don't think you could convert the speedo to be fed from the gearbox sensor, because the pulse rate from that sensor is probably different to the diff sensor and then the speedo would read wrongly. And this also wouldn't fix the ECU's problem either, because the ECU doesn't want to see the gearbox signal direct either (assuming that they are all on the same wiring, for some odd NA related reason, see above caveat!) Does this help? Probably not. Can you make it work? Almost certainly. With the above work. You should buy a handheld oscilloscope from Aliexpress so that you can view these signals directly. Connect up the probes and drive the car. Show photos of the screen when drving at known speeds and connected to different places, and we'll see what we can learn about it.
    • Assuming your brake pads are not worn right down, I'd add a little brake fluid. Is there any sign of a brake fluid leak?
    • Hello all,  I need of some help. On my drive home my handbrake light lit up and started flashing. When I got home I checked my handbrake sensor under the centre console and nothing seemed out of the ordinary. I have scanned my car via the consult port, no codes shown. Checked my brake fluid as well which is half full. Tried unplugging the brake master but it didn't change anything. Thoughts on what it could be? The master float doesn't seem to be stuck. My car is an 1998 ER34 sedan GT. No hicas but has ABS Photos below 👇🏾 
×
×
  • Create New...