Jump to content
SAU Community

GTR injectors

Clint32

By Clint32,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Warpspeed Experienced

Warpspeed

Posted
Posted

Standard GTR injectors are pretty cheap, because a lot of people rip theirs out to upgrade. I have just bought a set of 550cc high impedance injectors for $125 each. You may be able to do better if you are in no hurry, but I have never seen them go for below $100 each. The law of supply, and demand in action.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/4592-gtr-injectors/#findComment-71919
Share on other sites
Clint32 Mentor

Clint32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah i know, you can get them for $100 each, cleaned and tested so i was thinking $600 for injectors + $300aprox Z32 AFM + $500 to get computer chipped = $1400

GTR injectors go for $200 a set so for not much more I could change the computer for something else eg Haltech

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/4592-gtr-injectors/#findComment-72001
Share on other sites
Warpspeed Experienced

Warpspeed

Posted
Posted

If you are on a strict budget, I would go for the cheapie stock GTR injectors and the Haltech to start with. Later you can always flog off the injectors to someone else, and get something a bit better.

Getting a chip may be cheap now, but you will never be able to sell it to someone else later. Money down the drain in my opinion.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/4592-gtr-injectors/#findComment-72007
Share on other sites
Guest INASNT

Guest INASNT

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by Clint32

Thats what I was thinking, I want to make about 230rwkw so i think GTR injectors will be big enough.  I was just trying to find out what others have screwed out of them.  You can get about 220 with stock 33 ones and they are a fair bit smaller.

what fuel pump r u gonna be using coz gtst 1 is gonna die at that power level 2!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/4592-gtr-injectors/#findComment-72612
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • R32 TT
      33 GTR Broken front wheel knuckle

      By R32 TT · Posted

      Just had this happen to me too.  R32 GTR.   Also broke "just before going out onto the track" - someone up there is looking out for us... Very scary since I was about to do a narrow street course with zero run-off and curbs everywhere. Many people on here upgrading to billet uprights and R35 bearings?   Or buying new OEM knuckles?  I am not keen to replace with another s/h 30 year old fatigued part.
    • joshuaho96
      Coolant leak?

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Top off with distilled water and see what happens. If you keep losing coolant then you know to start looking.
    • Murray_Calavera
      Quieter performance exhausts (or muffler add-on options)

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • f00stx
      Quieter performance exhausts (or muffler add-on options)

      By f00stx · Posted

      So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • GTSBoy
      New kid on the block

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
×
×
  • Create New...